Review: The Old Mill pub in Metal Bridge, County Durham

And we have a selection of family favourite venues - good, solid, reliable staples we know we're going to enjoy. 

That was the case for many years with The Old Mill, a country pub and hotel in the marvellously named hamlet of Metal Bridge, not far from Ferryhill and Spennymoor in County Durham.

We liked the friendly welcome, comfortable surroundings and extensive menu with a dizzying choice of dishes we experienced every time.

But we hadn't been for a few years - no reason, we just got out of the habit and it slipped off the 'circuit'.

However, when my sister decided it was time for a get-together recently, The Old Mill came to mind and so we decided to venture there for Sunday lunch - hoping nothing had changed.

They don't take bookings for parties of less than ten so the five of us - myself, my wife, my sister, her husband and my mum - turned up on spec.

It's a huge pub and we'd never previouly had any issues finding a table, depsite it often being choc-a-bloc - and so it proved this time.

We skipped starters as we knew from past experience that generous portions were the order of the day here, so it was straight to the main course.

Now, as previously mentioned, we're creatures of habit and despite the huge choice - Sunday roasts, pub classics, fish dishes, grills and vegetarian options - after several minutes' thought, we often returned to the same dishes time and time again.

This is especially true of my brother-in-law, who had been looking forward all week to some spicy enchilladas, his dish of choice which he had enjoyed greatly on previous visits.

Imagine his disappointment upon being told that, although still available during the week, some dishes had been removed from a 'slimmed down' Sunday menu - including his beloved enchilladas.

Not that the Sunday menu choice was small - I counted 42 different main courses on offer, as well as others on the specials board.

And it was the specials to which three of us turned, for the chicken breast stuffed with haggis, coated in peppercorn sauce - with home made chips and vegetables.

Chicken breast, stuffed with haggis with a peppercorn sauce (Image: ANDREW WHITE)

This was the acid test - would it live up to our previous positive experiences here? The answer was a resounding 'yes'.

The chicken was moist and tasty and the haggis was wonderfully flavoursome.

The peppercorn sauce - there was an extra jug for all of us - was exquisite, with a pleasant heat. "Very peppery", declared my sister, which you would think is a minimum requirement, but previous experiences elswhere have taught us that is not always the case.

Frances, my wife, had the steamed salmon, with a sweet chilli sauce. She declared it "delicious" and was particularly impressed that the sauce was "quite spicy", compared to most sweet chilli sauces - which was a big tick for her.

Steamed salmon, with a sweet chilli sauce (Image: ANDREW WHITE)

Having got over his enchillada bombshell, my brother-in-law selected the steak and ale pie, with chips and veg.

A man not given to hyperbole, he declared it "very nice," although he felt the pastry was a little thick for his liking, which threw off his ideal pastry/filling ratio.

We all agreed that the chips were very good indeed - 'divine,' affirmed my brother-in-law, a man not known for superlatives where food is concerned.

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As already noted, they don't skimp on the portions here. And although we asked for a look at the dessert menu - again no shortage of choice - most of us were too full to accept.

However, I am a sucker for a good crumble, and when I spotted one and was informed it was rhubarb, I couldn't resist. I opted for custard over cream or ice cream.

Rhubarb crumble in a lake of custard (Image: ANDREW WHITE)

This was a good one - a crumbly crumble, custardy custard and soft rhubarb with just the right balance of sweet and sour.

My sister also indulged with an Eton mess - a mountain of cream, meringue and fruit. But it was lighter than it looked and delectable, she said - even if she couldn't quite finish it all.

Eton mess (Image: ANDREW WHITE)

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The bill - for five main courses, two desserts and a round of drinks - came to a very reasonable £106.25. Tremendous value.

So did The Old Mill live up to expectations after our unenforced absence? You bet it did - and we won't leave it so long next time! 

The Old Mill

Thinford Rd, Metal Bridge, Tursdale, Durham DH6 5NX

01740 652928

www.oldmilldurham.co.uk/

Open Monday to Thursday, 12pm to 8pm; Friday and Saturday noon to 9pm; Sundays, noon to 7pm

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 8 Surroundings 8 Service 7 Value 9