Thanks but...

IT is a stone-sobering thought that when Mr Arthur Mee set out in the Thirties to compile a national list of Thankful Villages, those whose men and boys had all come safely home from the First World War, the total reached just 35.

After much subsequent research it now stands, little less dolefully, at around 50.

They have names like Stoke Hammond and Herodsfoot, like Minting and East Wittering, Langton Herring, Little Sodbury and, inappropriately, Upper Slaughter.

Somerset has eight and doubtless is grateful.

Yorkshire, a big place, has but five. Lancashire has two, five miles apart, to which all 80 men returned though one, it’s said, left an arm behind.

County Durham has none, not one, though the denial is slightly puzzling.

Up near Blanchland in the county’s northern extreme, is the village of Hunstanworth and the striking church of St James. We came across the church, photographed the plaque, in 2004. It thanked God that their men had come home. It was a Thankful Village.

At any rate, Don Wilson in Durham has been visiting the Thankful Villages of North Yorkshire.

Scruton, near Leeming Bar, achieved the designation just five years ago and has, says Don, a handsome plaque in the porch.

Further along the A1 are Cundall and Norton- le-Clay, near Ripon. After visiting those, too, Don and his group had lunch at the Angel at Topcliffe, near Thirsk.

Don thought it duly ambrosial – “Food excellent, beer fine, the best sausage and chips I’ve had for a long time” he wrote – a view towards which the 2011 Good Pub Guide also edges.

“Big bustling place with well-kept Cameron’s ales and enjoyable, pubby food,”

says the GPG.

We went, five of us one Friday evening, on what most kindly be called the Beatles birthday.

Will you still need me, will you still feed me….?” It’s greatly to be hoped.

Though the car park was full, the restaurant was far from bustling. For much of the time we were the only people in it – though a contributory factor may have been that the birthday party was a little boisterous.

Prominently on the wall was a framed certificate.

The first aid box has been approved by the Health and Safety Executive, it said.

It was all, understand, perfectly okay. Nofrills, no-nonsense grub – “enjoyable pubby food,” precisely as the Guide observed, served cheerfully and at a reasonable price.

That it unanimously seemed to us to be nothing special may be reason for not heading a long way down the Great North Road, but little cause for criticism. For what we have received, and for lives a great deal longer than the poor boys fallen on foreign fields, may we be truly thankful.

THE Good Pub Guide is very much old faithful, dependably informative and as loyal to its regulars as a good landlord should be.

In the Northumbrian section, Tweed to Tees, only one main entry has been deleted and that – the Mill Race at Wolsingham – for the very good reason that it shut. Word is that an Italian restaurant is taking its place.

The 2011 guide has two new Northumbrian main entries, The Coach at Lesbury, up near Morpeth, and a reappearance of the oncerenowned County at Aycliffe Village – “smart, contemporary decor, interesting food.”

The reliables include the Teesdale Two – the Fox and Hounds at Cotherstone, another that’s “bustling”, and the Rose and Crown at Romaldkirk, lauded for excellent food and first-class staff.

There’s the Morritt Arms at Greta Bridge (“good, modern bar food”), the Manor House at Carterway Heads on the Durham/Northumberland border and, nearby, the Feathers at Hedley-on-the Hill, named the Northumbrian Dining Pub of the Year for the third year running.

In random order, North Yorkshire’s dependables include the Wyvill Arms at Constable Burton, the Nags Head at Pickhill, a return for the Abbey Inn at Byland, the Ministry of Defence-owned (but not run) Bolton Arms at Downholme, between Richmond and Leyburn, the Crab and Lobster at Asenby – “food excellent, certainly not cheap” – and the Buck at Thornton Watlass, which Mike and Margaret Fox have coverted for 24 years.

It’s also welcome that the Guide includes pubs that do next-to-no food at all, most notably the incomparable Victoria in Durham, where even the toastie machine may be browned off these days.

The glorious Crown Posada, Newcastle’s only main entry, will run to a sandwich at lunchtime, but nothing at night. The unchanging Birch Hall at Beck Hole, Heartbeat country, still serves pies with its pint – and nothing in the world to beat it.

■ The Good Pub Guide 2011 is published by Ebury Press (£14.99).

ACONVIVIAL evening last week marked the relaunch of the Blacksmiths Arms at North Cowton, run for 26 years by Melva Steckles and her family but now marketed under the deliciouslyorkshire banner.

“Marketing’s” the word. There were people talking about demographic boundaries and about LEPs, whatever they might be. One small LEP for mankind, anyway.

North Cowton’s roughly between Darlington and Northallerton. There’s an East Cowton, too, and a bit of a South Cowton, but there never was a West.

The new menu is sourced almost entirely locally; so is the beer, the guest ale voted by regulars.

The kitchen team – Sue Weighell, Denise Taylor and Angie Garbutt – have their roots there, too.

Melva, a former leader of Richmondshire District Council, is upbeat. “Dozens of pubs are closing every month. We’re determined to reverse the trend and give this place a real future.”

There’s also a Yorkshire shop and soon, they hope, a library. Food’s served seven evenings from 5pm, and Sunday lunchtimes.

LOOKING forward to Christmas, Carl Les – owner of the Lodge at Leeming, formerly the Leeming Bar Motel – was at the Blackies’ bash, too. This year marks the 25th anniversary of their pantomime lunches – Sundays in December, warmly recommended – next year they celebrate the 50th anniversary of his father opening the business.

SEVEN years ago we wrote about 18-yearold chef David Coulson, then at the White Hart in Hart Village – near Hartlepool – and the sort of young man whom the lady of the house thought should be encouraged.

This week he was in the “professional” semifinal of Masterchef. Encouraging, indeed.

David was a Wingate lad, Wellfield schoolboy, good enough a footballer to be on Sheffield United’s books from 11 to 15. His cooking had been recommended by Harry Blackwood, though with a rider. “If he rustled up that sort of thing in Wingate they’d think he was a nancy boy,” said Harry.

Since then he’s been about a bit, most recently at Wynyard Golf Club. Now he’s back where he started, head chef at the Castle Eden Inn.

Back in 2003, we’d enjoyed his cooking – “confident, robust, generous” – but worried about his spelling. “Put it this way, if he can’t do ‘grannery bread’ it’s probably best to avoid Mediterranean vegetables.”

Happily, there’s no spelling test in Masterchef.

AS we mentioned last week, Camra’s North-East pub and club of the year – the Surtees at Ferryhill Station and Darlington Snooker Club, on the corner of Northgate and Corporation Road, opposite the Odeon – both hold Hallowe’en beer festivals next weekend.

There’ll be beers like Coffin Dodger and Ghostly Glory, Zombie, Bucket of Blood and Goths and Ghoulies.

The Snooker Club bash begins next Thursday evening, running through to Sunday, with food and the fabled pies and peas throughout.

Least scary of all are the club’s prices: all cask ales, regardless of strength, will be just £2.30 a pint.

…and finally, the bairns wondered if we knew what animal floats gracefully over the jungle.

A hot air baboon, of course.