IN March, I visited a County Durham school to sample the lunchtime menu condemned by Jamie Oliver in his television series Jamie's School Dinners.

I found that the TV chef was right - the food being dished up to youngsters at Eden Community School, in Peterlee, County Durham, was tasteless, overcooked and far from nourishing.

Six months on, I returned to the dining hall to find a miraculous culinary transformation had taken place.

Long before Jamie and his film crew had descended on the school's kitchens, headteacher Yvonne Ryle had already decided to opt out of receiving the local authority pre-prepared meals.

"I was determined that my pupils would be provided with a wholesome tasty meal. I wanted everything to be cooked on site and banned all additives from the menu,'' said Mrs Ryle.

The head of the 400-pupil nursery, infants and primary school complex used the long summer holiday to embark on her ambitious plan to set up her own kitchens and recruit her own cooks.

She pulled off a major coup when she came across chef Colin Scott, who, with previous experience in both the private and public sector, agreed to head the kitchen team.

"I knew we had to work to a tight budget but, along with Mrs Ryle, I knew we could come up with fresh, tasty food and even persuade the children to eat lots of fruit and vegetables," he said.

Yesterday, I went to evaluate their success, or otherwise - to sample the proof of the pudding.

Accompanied by a delightful group of young pupils who were bubbling over with enthusiasm, we tucked into our lunch.

I chose a ground beef and pasta dish with perfectly cooked broccoli and, as a special treat, home-cooked chips.

My seven-year-old luncheon companion, Danni Willis, went for a delicious prepared-from-scratch pizza with salad.

These were the dishes children like, but the difference was they were made with fresh ingredients and cooked to perfection.

I watched in amazement as youngsters at my table tucked in to their food and cleared every mouthful.

To round it off, there was home-made apple pie and lump-free custard or fresh fruit.

And although the portions were generous, there was soon a long queue for seconds.

Mrs Ryle and Mr Scott had more than adequately proved their point.

The unanimous favourite on the week's menu was mince and dumplings with fresh vegetables.

"I love my school meals now and so do all my friends," said Danni, who has no problem with the school's new rule of no sweet snacks on the premises. Full marks to Eden Community School.