Ever since I was young I have been fascinated by Rome, an interest no doubt fuelled by its exciting portrayal in numerous films.

As a child, if I was ever asked where I was going, I used to answer "Rome".

"Rome?" would come the inevitable retort from the surprised adult. "Yes, to roam the streets", I would reply.

That was as close as I got as a youngster but this week, finally, my path lead to the Eternal City.

The first thing to say is, that if you have never been before, then go - it is a fascinating city, cosmopolitan but with a character all of its own.

Around every corner is another stunning historical building or artwork; you can stroll through public parks littered with 2,000-year-old architecture.

It's only by viewing the city from a height that you get to appreciate the scale of riches and I found the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier provided an excellent vantage point.

So Rome is wonderful, but after a couple of days of acclimatising to the treasures I began to look beneath the veneer.

Now, call me sad if you want, but I began to notice amongst the Michelangelo's and da Vinci's a lot of less welcome modern artwork.

Spray painted graffiti seemed to be everywhere and some of it looked like it had been there for a very long time.

Many of the more modern buildings were grubby, to say the least, and the dark, satanic high-rise flats on the edge of the city suggest not all the locals have benefited from Rome's prosperity.

Litter was everywhere and I didn't see a roadsweeper during my entire stay.

The traffic was horrendous and there doesn't seem to be any transport plan or pedestrian areas designed to allow people to walk around the city and view the treasures in safety - whilst also protecting those treasures from pollution.

As for zebra crossings, they are generally ignored by motorists and have been virtually worn away with no-one bothering to repaint them.

The exception was the Vatican City. The sheer size of St Peter's Square and the Basilica takes the breath away and, while being the wealthiest state in the world undoubtedly helps, the cleanliness and serenity of the Vatican shows that the modern day administrators have a deep respect, not only for the history, but also the modern day visitor.

Night-time in Rome is a pleasurable experience. There is a vibrant mix of restaurants, bars and entertainment. They need to introduce no smoking areas but apart from that there is something for everyone.

What I didn't see were gangs of drunks fighting and hurling foul mouthed abuse. Nor did I see paralytic young people vomiting or urinating in the streets.

Perhaps it is the relaxed licensing laws that have led to such a relaxed atmosphere, perhaps the authorities clamp down more severely on rogue licensees or the police and justice system are more severe with yobs.

Flying home I reflected on how there are things that Rome can learn from many British cities with regard to the protection of the fabric of the city and creating a safer area for visitors to walk about.

But, come nightfall, there is definitely much that British towns and cities can learn from Rome.

Published: 29/07/2005