THE royal county of Berkshire may seem a long way to travel for a weekend break, but on arrival its charm and hospitality brings its own rewards. After a disastrous start to the day, which involved the breaking down and hiring of a car, my husband Peter and I were certainly ready for the splendid welcome we received on arriving at the French Horn Hotel in the pretty but busy village of Sonning-on-Thames, four miles east of Reading.

The 150-year-old hotel, owned by the Emmanuel family for 30 years, describes itself as a restaurant with rooms. But that is an insult to the enormous luxury suite, overlooking a gentle curve on the meandering Thames, which was to be our home for two nights.

After a good night's sleep and hearty full English, served in our own lounge, we set out to explore the area, ignoring the frantic M4 and choosing instead the B3024 for Windsor, which took us on a sleepy 15-mile journey through picture postcard villages like Ruscombe and Waltham St Lawrence, featuring elegant churches and thatched cottages.

On the outskirts of Windsor we followed the park and ride signs to Legoland before taking the shuttle bus into town. Parking in Windsor costs anything from £8 a day, and that's if you can find a space. The shuttle is £3 return for up to five people.

The castle dominates the town and is worth a visit, if only to see the newly restored St George's Hall following the 1992 fire, and Queen Mary's dolls' house, which is built on a 1:12 scale. But be warned if your time is precious - we discovered there was a 30-minute queue only after we had bought our £10.50 tickets. Locals told us later that during the summer months a wait of over an hour is the norm.

The cobbled area of Windsor, known as Guildhall Island, has many interesting buildings dating from the 17th Century. Look for the plaque on the Old King's Head in Church Street, which records the warrant for the execution of Charles 1 in 1648.

The Guild Hall was completed by Sir Christopher Wren in 1690. If you look closely at the central columns you will notice they don't quite touch the ceiling. Legend has it that councillors, against Wren's wishes, insisted on columns in the interests of safety. Not to be outdone, Wren left the columns an inch short of the ceiling. Crossing the bridge over the Thames from Windsor to Eton you will find the high street is a collectors' paradise.

But if peace and quiet is your aim, head instead for the beautiful Savill garden in Windsor Great Park.

Developed in 1932 by Sir Eric Savill, it's a garden for all seasons and is maintained by traditional methods, providing a refuge for plants that might otherwise be lost. Admission is £3 but rises to £5 in the summer, with concessions for children. A boat trip is a relaxing way to spend an afternoon, passing through the attractive village of Datchet, the inspiration for Sir Isaac Walton's The Compleat Angler.

Two miles upstream is Runnymede, the famous site of the signing of the Magna Carta. A walk through the meadow, to the top of the hill here, offers spectacular views of the Thames Valley.

Back at The French Horn, we enjoyed a pre-dinner glass of champagne while watching ducks spit roasting before an open fire in the bar, described by film director and Sunday Times food critic Michael Winner as the best restaurant duck he has ever tasted.

The restaurant is renowned for its mix of classic French cuisine and traditional English cooking. We enjoyed a superb candlelit dinner, watching the moon reflect off the Thames and the gently floodlit gardens. The hotel boasts an extensive wine list.

If you really want to push the boat out, the cellar has a bottle of Chateau Latour 1961, first growth, at £7,000! Guests can also enjoy the facilities of the Nirvana Spa, the largest in the UK, at nearby Wokingham.

The hotel is also handy for racegoing guests with Windsor, Ascot and Newbury all within easy reach. Our hosts, the Emmanuels, fielded their three-year-old, named after the hotel, at Windsor the day after our stay. We backed it and lost, but we both agreed that their hotel if not their horse was a sure-fire winner.

FACTFILE

Rooms at The French Horn, Sonning-on-Thames, cost from £110-£165 per room, per night, with full English breakfast for two people sharing. There is a slight reduction for single occupancy.

A three course dinner costs, on average, £50 per person. Wine is extra.

The French Horn is a member of Pride of Britain Hotels: for a brochure telephone (01264) 324400.