AS Bruges is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe we expected to be confronted by hundreds of sightseers thronging the picturesque city. But unlike other busy continental cities, it's possible to enjoy a peaceful amble through its fascinating streets.

Bruges is not built on a large scale, but every corner you turn there is always something new and interesting to see. The words charming and delightful do not do it justice.

The buildings are striking, the step gables of the houses adding to their charms. Most buildings are brick-built, with their shutters and woodwork painted in traditional Bruges red.

The pace of life encourages visitors to take time out to appreciate what is one of Europe's prettiest cities. There are plenty of opportunities to take a lingering stroll along the banks of the canals, have a ride in a horse-drawn carriage or cycle along the winding streets.

As it is so compact, with attractions clearly sign posted and street maps on just about every corner, it is an easy place to walk around. Walking through the quiet residential areas there is still a sense of what it must have been like long before the city was discovered by tourists. Footsteps still sound on the cobbles, church bells often chime, and more often than not an echo of a horse's hooves can be heard from a neighbouring street.

However, canal cruises are an ideal way of seeing the city. The average cruise lasts half an hour and most are ran by locals who have extremely good knowledge of the legends and history of the city and, as an added bonus, speak good English.

Belgium is, of course, best known for its beers and chocolates and it's very easy to throw restraint to the wind when you visit one of the cities many chocolatiers. A useful tip to remember is because all the chocolate is made with fresh ingredients, it is important they are eaten promptly - well that's my excuse anyway.

Chocolate shops can be found on practically every street along with a vast range of beer shops - another must-buy.

Enter any bar in Bruges and you will be spoilt for choice. Typically, each one sells 20-30 different beers, but some sell as many as 100.

After indulging in chocolate and beer, the answer is to walk it off by exploring many of the forgotten streets of the city, as well as the more popular tourist attractions.

Most visitors head for the main square, known to residents as the Markt. Bounded by centuries-old houses with steep gables, the Markt is home to a local food and produce market on Wednesdays. The range of locally grown fruit, the fishmongers and variety of cheeses on offer is excellent. Just a short walk from the Markt is the impressive bell tower, which dominates the square. Climbing the 300-plus steps gives a stunning view of the city and surrounding area.

The town hall is one of the oldest in Belgium and if you stand close to the building its statues and spiral chimneys seem to curve down over you. A room in the hall is dedicated to the history of Bruges with displays of old coins, documents and other artefacts.

Also worth a visit is the cathedral, which has suffered four great fires in its 800-year history so very little of its original glory remains. It is home, however, to beautiful tapestries.

And, for young lovers there is opportunity to visit the Lake of Love. An expanse of still water, it is the perfect place for quiet walks or for just lying by the lake. Legend has it that if a couple throw coins into the lake believing it will bring them good luck they will undoubtedly end up separated in the next six months.

Bruges is ideal for a short break, with plenty to see and do. It has a somewhat magical quality. It is extremely peaceful and calming, and I reluctantly left wondering why the whole world couldn't be like that.

FACTFILE

For more information and holidays to Bruges, contact the Tourism Flanders brochure line on 0207-867 0311.

l P&O North Sea Ferries is offering minicruises to Bruges from Hull every day throughout November and up to December 20 from £31 per person. For more information call 0870 129 6003