Turn your attention to fuchsias

Fuchsias grow well in the home when given cool humid conditions with plenty of light. Little else need be done to keep them happy, providing that they are sprayed regularly with a systemic insecticide against greenfly.

Most of the other common pests which attach fuchsias can be controlled with a regular aerosol houseplant insecticidal spray. Red spider mite can still be troublesome despite this, but humid conditions should prevent its appearance, so an occasional misting with clear water is helpful.

Fungal diseases are rarely troublesome on actively growing indoor fuchsias. Mildew occasionally appears as a white deposit on the foliage. When this happens, stand the affected plants outside and spray with a systemic fungicide.

Apart from these problems, the main concern of the indoor fuchsia grower is hygiene. As flowers and leaves fade they should be removed.

Do not allow old blossoms to cling to the branches nor shed leaves to accumulate on the surface of the pot. Both are capable of harbouring pests and diseases. Turn the pot regularly so that each side faces the window for a day. This ensures that there is even foliage and flower development, resulting in a shapely plant which is not so likely to drop its leaves prematurely.

Leaves on the room side of a plant grown on a window ledge have a much shorter life than those provided with as much light as possible. A quarter turn of the pot daily, is sufficient.

Retaining the foliage in good condition depends upon regular feeding. Fuchsias are hungry plants and quickly deplete the available nutrients in proprietary potting composts.

Houseplant liquid feeds are perfectly adequate if used at about fortnightly intervals throughout the active growing period. Regular feeding fosters lusty growth and good flower production.

However, the growth that results is not always as even as desired, so regular pinching back to provide a balanced framework is essential. Treat fuchsias being grown as houseplants as if they were being prepared for a show. It is this attention to great detail which leads to success.

There is a wide range of varieties from which to choose. Some have a fairly upright habit, others are bushy, while for hanging pot and basket fuchsias can be used.

Of the trailing basket kinds, watch out for the pure white Flying Cloud or purple and white Eva Boerg. Then there are the appropriately named Red Spider and Pink Galore.

Amongst the more usual bushy pot varieties there is the two tone pink Display, silvery-blue and pink Winston Churchill and red and white Snowcap. Dwarf varieties which can be grown as either small pot plants or in window boxes include Tom Thumb and Lady Thumb. Neither grow more than nine inches high.

Amongst the intermediate sorts do not forget the golden leafed kinds like Genii or Aurea, and there are of course variegated foliage varieties too.

WHAT'S NEW

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Q I have a camellia which is in full flower. I understand that I must prune it when flowering is over. What do I do?

A Pruning a camellia should be to shape it and take out any unwanted or weak shoots. Cut just above a leaf joint. If pruned immediately after flowering there is no danger of removing wood that will flower next season.

Q My newly planted clematis is only growing from the top. Can I cut it back now so that it will sprout from lower down?

A Yes, cut it to within six to nine inches of the ground. Even if there are no signs of buds now it should still sprout.

Q My aubretia is finishing flowering. How hard can I trim it back?

A Run the shears over it and remove all the old flowering stems. You can cut the foliage back as hard as necessary to keep it within bounds. It will quickly recover