THERE is something strangely disconcerting about seeing a usually popular tourist attraction almost deserted on a scorching Sunday in May. To begin with, you start to worry that you've missed a news bulletin warning of an imminent nuclear attack, or that it's actually a week day and you should be at work.

But no. This is Kielder Water and Forest in the middle of a foot-and-mouth epidemic.

I remember Northumberland from my visits as a youngster, as a place heaving with walkers, cyclists, anglers, water skiers and holiday makers, from far and wide. But on this occasion it was empty. I was half expecting to see a tumbleweed roll past.

This is an area that thrives on tourists, and with a wealth of history and a stunning landscape you can understand why the region never usually struggles.

At the root of the problem is the fact that the public firmly believes the area is completely closed. It is in fact open. Well, a good deal of it is. And while many of the walking and cycling routes are closed to the public, there is still plenty of the countryside left to enjoy.

But this is a message that is proving hard to get across and until the tourists begin to flock back, the area's hotels, attractions, pubs and restaurants, are dying a slow, painful death. One hotel suffering from the epidemic is Otterburn Tower, a magnificent Norman castle just 20 miles from the Scottish border.

Converted into a hotel in 1947, the current owner, John Goodfellow, has lavishly refurbished the building into a luxury fortress, boasting 17 bedrooms. He has also brought on board new head chef Colin Leggett, who can list Richard Branson among his former bosses.

But despite all this, Mr Goodfellow, a former farmer, is yet to reap the rewards. As he admits: "We've had interest from around the world, especially from America and Australia, but at the moment visitors think Northumberland is closed, and people are cancelling or just simply not coming.

"We want people to know that we are here, we are open, and we are offering a first class service."

This is a sentiment shared by attractions across the county. At Hadrian's Wall, visitor numbers are as low as they have ever been, and even towns such as Hexham and Corbridge are suffering.

And the biggest worry is that people living on the doorstep of Northumberland aren't coming. They are heading for the coast or simply going abroad.

I for one had never really thought of Northumberland as a holiday spot, perhaps a day out at the most. But without wanting to sound corny, I was pleasantly surprised. It is less than an hour's drive from Darlington, but with a landscape similar to parts of Scotland, you feel miles from home.

There are more castles per square kilometre in Northumberland than any other county in England, and its historically precarious position on the Anglo-Scottish border gives it a very bloody and battle-filled history.

And whether you like the outdoor life or a quiet break, you will find it in Northumberland, foot-and-mouth or no foot-and-mouth.

But the only way to be completely convinced is to visit it for yourself.

Northumberland:

Places to visit and stay

Kielder Water and Forest Park: Kielder Castle Forest Park Visitor Centre (01434) 250209 or www.kielder.org

Hadrian's Wall, Hexham, Corbridge: Hexham Tourist Information Centre (01434) 652220 or www.hadrians-wall.org

Otterburn Mill: (01830) 520225

Otterburn Tower Hotel: (01830) 520620 or www.otterburntower.co.uk

Northumbria Tourist Board: 0191-375 3000 or www.visitnorthumbria.com