Will the great M&S gamble pay off?

JANUARY is usually pretty dismal when it comes to fashion - plenty of baggy jumpers and cut-price party wear and not much else. But step inside Marks & Spencer and the story is very different. Staff in more than 50 stores across the country, including Newcastle, have been working overnight to completely restock the rails with the new spring collection for women.

It's a big gamble for the company, which has only recently started to turn round its ailing fortunes but bosses believe customers are ready for the change. They're also hoping to build on the success of Per Una, the new and highly successful range from George Davies, which was launched last year.

"What's so interesting about our customers is that they are looking for newness all the time," says Steve Longdon, director of womenswear. "All we have done is translate that desire for newness into this launch.

"When people have complained in the past about Marks & Spencer, I've compared it to being like a windscreen wiper. At one end it's too old or too young. We have now segmented up the classics into fashions for the more mature, and Per Una, for the more fashion-conscious customer, so that allows us to be more focused on the core customer who is so important to us."

There are plenty of sundresses and even shorts, but the company is well aware that we're still in the depths of winter. This is a transitional collection, which will give women more choice, much earlier in the season. And while M&S is providing a taste of what is to come when the weather eventually hots up in its new ranges, it will initially be stocking its stores with clothing that is adapted to the mid-winter season

It is the first entire collection created for retail giant by its new creative director, Yasmin Yusuf, who joined the chain from Warehouse, where, as managing director, she helped turn around the loss-making business. All the wardrobe essentials are there, including the classic white shirt and black trousers, essential jeans and a stylish trench coat but there is, as you would expect, a strong emphasis on fashion.

According to Yusuf, it's all about "wardrobe building", and although the collection is divided into different themes, they are all interchangeable and complementary, allowing you to create your own personal style, whether you favour the conservative or more contemporary look.

The core collection gets that Riviera touch with a nautical theme inspired by the nostalgic glamour of the South of France. The emphasis is on knitwear and key colours are red, navy and white.

Relaxed tailoring can be worn with an endless variety of T-shirts and sweaters while polka dots emphasise the graphic, clean-cut mood on pretty dresses that are frilled and fluted at the hem.

As the season evolves, this range will become more romantic in feel, including pretty pastels and beautifully embellished chiffons - perfect for sultry days and nights.

The Holiday wardrobe also represents a return to the 1950s, with two-pieces and swimsuits in wild, big cat prints. Bold and tropical florals and sexy stripes appear on matching towels, flip-flops and pretty beach bags. Big Jackie O-style sunglasses and an array of hats complete the look. Glamour is predominantly black and white, inspired by the drama of the 1930s, while Safari offers natural tones, suedes and crisp cottons.

The turnover of new styles on the shop floor will be swifter than ever, with the major outlets introducing new lines as rapidly as every four weeks and other stores every eight weeks.

"The whole retail cycle is constantly exciting because it all depends on how the customer receives the new ranges," says Londgon. "We have a tremendous ability to reach manufacturers in Europe and the UK. So if we want to turn around, for example, formal tops, we can do that in as little as four weeks, which means we can be as quick as any of our key competitors."

The new 2002 collections are now on sale at Marks & Spencer in Newcastle and other selected stores.