Marks and Spencer's new autumn/winter collection takes its inspiration from the 1960s. Women's Editor Christen Pears enjoys a sneak preview

WALKING into the former Saatchi Gallery in London for the launch of Marks & Spencer's new autumn/winter collection is like stepping back in time. Huge studio lights shine down on models wearing mini skirts and patent leather boots. The rails are awash with swirling black and white prints, dogstooth and Prince of Wales checks.

The 1960s influence is strongest in the Limited Collection - a range of sleek monochrome pieces with splashes of shocking pink, lime and tangerine. Key shapes include pencil and mini skirts, fitted polo necks, trench coats and bomber jackets. The trilby makes a comeback, along with pointy-toed, flat pumps, sexy knee boots and envelope-thin clutch bags. Think Swinging Sixties London, David Bailey photographs and Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton.

"We've really made this the focus," says M&S creative director Yasmin Yusuf, who's wearing a 1960s-style black leather dress and bright orange shoes. "Everyone is different sizes, different ages but this is about versatility. You can choose one of the core pieces from the collection or go for something a bit more confident. It's a bit of fun."

There are no formal suits on the rails. This is about mixing and matching different pieces to create your own, individual look.

The silhouette of the Limited Collection is sleeker, sharper and cut to fit the contours of a woman's body. It has a more grown-up feel. "We've had gypsy and grunge but women want a bit more femininity, a bit more glamour now. Everything is pared down," says Yusuf.

Yusuf, who came to M&S from Warehouse two years ago and is generally credited with turning round the fortunes of its womenswear department. Once staid and old-fashioned, it's now much more fashion-led, drawing in younger customers but managing to retain the loyalty of the traditional M&S shopper.

This is reflected in the core collection, which contains both classic and more up-to-date pieces. It is split into six sections: Heartland, Winter Luxe, Modern, Cocktail, Sportswear and Lingerie.

Soft knitwear, velvets and faux fur feature strongly in Winter Luxe, while Heartland has a vintage feel, with tweeds, suede and leather in rich chocolates, greens and berry shades. The Modern collection cleverly updates classics to transform your working wardrobe.

The little black dress is at the core of the Cocktail collection. It comes in every shape and style, with prices starting at £39. Sportswear is ultra-modern while the Lingerie collection delves into the past for inspiration. Elegant 1920s and 1930s styles jostle for space alongside cheeky 1950s pin-up pieces.

The third strand of M&S autumn/winter collection is Autograph, which offers designer style at high street pieces. Anthony Symonds collection has a 1940s theme, while Sonja Nuttall concentrates on modern, sexy tailoring. Denim is key to Betty Jackson's range, while New York features tailoring, casual clothing and dramatic eveningwear. The ubiquitous trilby underpins Philip Treacy's collection, harking back to the overall 1960s theme.

l The Marks & Spencer autumn/winter collection will be available in stores from August.