Is it just a bundle of laughs being a clown, or is life in the big top harder than you think? Gavin Havery runs away to the circus to find out.

'LOOK kids, go and see the clown," an enthusiastic parent urges a group of wide-eyed youngsters. Forgetting my ridiculous get-up, I look around before realising they are heading towards me.

Chattering excitedly they approach and start asking questions, staring in wonderment at the way this foolish man is dressed.

I have only been a member of the circus for about five minutes but already I feel duty bound to perform, or at least to pretend to get into the role. I am trapped by my costume and know there is no way I can rudely stomp off without a word and leave them disappointed. I may as well start swearing and tell them the truth about Father Christmas.

Seizing their football, I try a few keepie-ups in my oversized rubber clown shoes, thinking that's what a real clown would have done. "What football team do you support," they ask, expecting something exotic and circus-related like Clown United or Bozo Rovers.

"Newcastle," I reply. "I'm only from up the road." That stumps 'em, until they start asking about Alan Shearer.

Then I see the person I am looking for coming around the big top at Preston Park in Stockton, so I make my excuses and leave. Gavin Brand, the ringmaster of Uncle Sam's American Circus, has been in the game 55 years and earned his first wage as a circus performer when he was six.

It is his life and he has travelled the world as an artist and compere for many different touring companies. But for the next few weeks his entourage will be wowing North-East audiences with their show of death-defying stunts performed without the security of a safety net, mixed with old-fashioned circus comedy and music.

"We give people two hours of non-stop laughter and action and that is what it is all about," says Gavin, 61, originally from Buffalo in the state of New York.

"The atmosphere is wonderful because it is genuine family entertainment, which works on two levels: there is something for the kids but also something more subtle for the adults."

Gavin's show boasts fire-eaters, amazing acrobatics, trapeze artists, jugglers, Wild West whip crackin', daring motorcycle stunts and, of course, the clowns.

There are no animals in the show and, while that takes some of the attraction away, it means people can't complain about seeing wild animals locked up in a cage. Gavin says big cats, camels, llamas and elephants are just too much work and need looking after 24 hours a day, seven days a week. The artists and crew have enough to do, what with unpacking, performing, packing and travelling constantly.

"We never have a day off and regularly do 12 hours a day," explains Gavin. "Occasionally we get a night off but there is always something that needs doing and people have no idea how hard this sort of work is.

"People who want to join us have this misconception that it is easy - they don't usually last very long."

Outside the big top, circus life looks interesting, inviting almost. People seem warm and friendly and have all the mod cons, including computers with Internet access and tumble dryers, inside their giant caravans.

"In effect this is like a mobile village and there is a great community spirit because we all know one another and work alongside each other everyday," says Gavin. "Whenever we have something to celebrate like a birthday or occasionally a wedding, we all get together and have a big party. Everyone is invited. We don't need a function room because we have the big top. It is our livelihood but it is also our social centre, if you like.

"We are pretty much self contained and generate our own power, the only thing we need when we get to a new venue is a water supply so we can shower."

Young children run around the site, playing happily and effortlessly doing impressive gymnastic tricks and perfecting other tumbling skills. Television and computer games don't seem to have the same pull on these kids, who learn circus skills in the morning then have school lessons in the afternoon. A travellers' teacher visits the site regularly to make sure they are not falling behind because they are too busy doing back flips.

Some tots are slow to start crawling, but Gavin's daughter Rosita is only 21 months old and already she can do a forward roll. Her education shouldn't suffer too much either. Mum Victoria is a former schoolteacher from the Midlands who literally ran away with the circus after she met Gavin seven years ago. She plans to teach Rosita herself when she is old enough but also let her decide if she want to follow in her father's footsteps.

"This sort of lifestyle is ideal for kids because there is always something for them to do and it is all geared towards fitness," says Victoria, who works in the circus box office.

"I left my house and job to come on the road while I was pregnant and I have no regrets, I love it.

"I never thought I would do anything like this and most people were really surprised when I told them what I was doing, but I think most of them are just a little bit envious."

Before the show opens I meet the performers and I am given the chance to see the ring from 30 feet in the air, clinging on to hydraulic chains while one of the acrobats does handstands on the rings underneath me.

Then I learn how to use a bull whip and after a few practices manage to get it to make a satisfying loud crack. However, when I become over zealous, I nearly take my ear off.

Before I know it I am in the caravan of chief clown Ramone Martinez, getting made up as Gavo. A yellow T-shirt, blue checked clown shorts and waistcoat, along with huge shoes and a cap and the transformation is complete.

I feel nervous before I go into the ring. The crowd has just got there and it is up to Ramone, Paulito and me to warm them up with some cheeky clowning around.

We enter the ring to cheers from the children and dance around, well, like wallies, I suppose, excited by the prospect of disturbing the circus show by jiving to the boogie box, also known as a ghetto blaster.

I just follow their lead, looking happy when they do and comedy glum in the next breath while ringmaster Gavin Brand has adopted his stage persona and threatens the clowns for interrupting, eventually blowing up the boogie box with a huge bang.

That was it. I had done my bit and appeared in real live circus. It was over. I went back to Ramone's caravan and started taking off my make up, then my clown clothes and changed back into my work suit and looked in the mirror. It took me a while to realise who was looking back at me.

* Uncle Sam's American Circus is at Preston Park, Stockton, until Sunday; John Whitehead Park in Billingham from Monday to Thursday next week (June 16-19); Hartlepool Marina from Friday until Sunday (June 20-22), then Gateshead Team Valley (near Safeway) from June 24-29.