ONCE upon a time the Croft Spa Hotel just south of Darlington on the road to Northallerton was famous, famous for being a traditional coaching inn renowned for its quality food and as a top-notch venue for weddings, dances and other functions.

It was a destination in itself and thought-of fondly by locals and those just passing through.

Then hard times came and a succession of owners who tried, in vain, to revive its glory days.

Eighteen months ago its fate appeared to be sealed by a proposal to convert the building into flats and apartments. But that didn't pass muster with Richmondshire's planning department and the current owners had no other option than to give the Croft Spa another go as a hostelry.

They have set-to with gusto and although the refurbishment is still "work in progress", enough has been completed to guage the new spirit of the place.

It has certainly changed. Now just called rather trendily The Croft, the faded furnishings and tatty wall coverings have disappeared to be replaced with wood flooring, leather couches and earth tones. It's not cutting-edge interior design by any means but it's pleasant enough and, despite extensive alterations to the layout, due respect has been paid to some of the hotel's period features, particularly some impressive plaster ceilings.

Although the new restaurant is yet to open, they have been serving bar meals in the extensive bar area which now stretches from the front of the hotel into what used to be the hotel restaurant.

On a recent Thursday evening it was relatively quiet with maybe half-a-dozen couple enjoying early evening meals. We ordered at the bar from a short standard menu of light snacks and main meals plus a few specials.

Leek and potato soup came with crusty bread (£2.95) and although piping hot was a little under-seasoned for Sylvia's preference.

My Thai fish cake came with an avocado salsa and chilli sauce (£5.25) and as the price suggests this is really designed to be a small snack rather than a starter. A massive circle of fish cake, it was surprisingly light and piquant.

Sylvia's main course - baked Scottish salmon with a crayfish sauce (£5.75) - was considered "divine", with the bisque-like sauce rated particularly highly.

My main course of corned beef fritters with mashed potato, fried egg and brown sauce (£5.95) brought to mind a similar dish eaten at London's celebrity eaterie The Ivy. It was just as good in a no-nonsense nursery food sort of way and a quarter of the price.

Other main courses included steak and mushroom pie cooked in ale (£5.95) and sirloin steak (£12.95) with all the trimmings and the 8oz Croft burger (£7.50).

We finished with a very good raspberry creme brulee (£3.75) which passed the crispy topping test with flying colours. The custard beneath was light and its sweetness nicely tempered by the chunks of raspberry.

The bill, including coffees and a couple of drinks, came to a tad under £30. We thought that good value for cooking well above the average and certainly a better bar-meal deal than some so-called "gastro-pubs" in the district.

Service was friendly and brisk with manager Neil Brelsford well to the fore.

Final judgment on whether The spa-less Croft is back to its best will have to wait until the re-vamp is completed. But certainly this seemed to be a promising beginning.

Much will depend on the restaurant and it will be interesting to see what Croft chef Christopher Rhoney puts on the menu when it opens in September. Definietly worth checking out.