Built on sand and immense wealth, Dubai is a mystical mix of the old and the new. Sam Moritz finds the perfect destination for a luxury break and an Arabian adventure.

Welcome to downtown Dubai - a kaleidoscope of skyscrapers, poised like tubes of Refreshers, gleaming in the fierce sunshine. A city built on sand, with expressway signs like Highway Ras Corniche, Ruler's Court and Al Maktoum Bridge, alongside shopping malls named Emirates Boulevard, Wafi City and Oasis Centre.

A colourful collection of striking modern architecture, fuelled by the country's immense wealth. One of the highest densities of five-star hotels in the world, including the 200-suite, seven-star Burj Al Arab.

Dubai, in short, is a fantastic place for travellers. Perched on its sunny shores and overlooking the Gulf of Arabia are rows of first-class resorts, with white sandy beaches, championship golf courses, tax-free designer shopping and bargain hunting in the ancient, colourful souks, which sell gold, spices and carpets.

It is a mystical mix of old and new, and the perfect destination for a luxurious break and an Arabian desert adventure.

An hour's drive from downtown Dubai, the Jebel Ali Golf Resort & Spa juts out of the landscape, resembling a vast mirage from the approach. Set in idyllic landscaped gardens, it has its own marina, outdoor freshwater and seawater pools with swim-up bars, a stunning private beach and an immaculate golf course.

At night, starry palm trees light the boulevards, and its beachfront location always guarantees a warm, welcoming breeze. It's the perfect place to check in for total R&R and never leave, especially after a journey from downtown Dubai across isolated, barren terrain that resembles the backdrop for a spaghetti western.

For sun worshippers seeking retail therapy, Dubai has over 30 gleaming air-conditioned shopping malls. It even boasts its own shopping festival at the end of January, when designer shops and boutiques offer discounts of up to 70 per cent.

As well as every glossy name under the baking-hot sun - Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, Gucci and Cartier - don't be surprised if you come across more down-to-earth brands like Ikea, Debenhams and even Woolworths.

For thirtysomethings who don't want to see a Karen Millen after they've flown for seven hours, a cheap taxi ride to the souks for some Las Vegas-style bling is another option.

The gold souk is phenomenal. It's a labyrinth of narrow streets, where dark glasses are a must to break up the glare of the yellow 21 and 22 carat gold that cascades from the windows of over 300 near-identical outlets.

Necklaces, bracelets and earrings are weighed, and the price can be quoted in most currencies. Bargain, bargain, bargain with the shopkeeper, and don't settle on anything until you are halfway out of the door and get enticed back in.

Shy, retiring types can save some spending power for the last day - the 18-carat gold on offer in Dubai International Airport is cheaper, hallmarked and comes with a receipt of authenticity.

If jewellery doesn't trip your trigger, there is a wide selection of pashminas and beautiful perfume oils that are inexpensive but long-lasting.

As cosmopolitan as Dubai is, an evening of traditional entertainment is not to be sniffed at - even if it's a dinner cruise aboard a traditional dhow. The Creek offers a picturesque glimpse of the city's ancient trading history - century-old dhows line the waterway, and the fluorescent floodlit buildings that soar into the night sky create a wonderful open-air theatre.

On a balmy evening, you can sit on the upper deck, under the stars, and enjoy a feast of sheesh taouk and lamb kebab, oozi with rice, moutabel, houmous and delicious baklava.

You will also have the best seats in town when the Arabic music starts, and a curvaceous belly dancer flashes you a smile and struts her stuff to the rhythm of a tambourine.

Desert adventures are big business in Dubai, and 'dune bashing' is one of the most popular. Forget that smelly camel trek and sign up for the convoy of four-wheel drives that depart the heat of the city in mid-afternoon for a 90-minute journey to the 'trading post'.

At the foot of the real desert, crimson satin flags announce the greatest rollercoaster ride in the world. Glorious golden sand dunes stretch as far as the eye can see. We're at the mercy of a driver who instructs us to tighten our seat belts, and the fun is about to begin.

In a crazy, high-speed journey over 70m high sand dunes; it is often best not to look. This is knuckle-whitening stuff, but after 45 minutes of stomach-churning four-wheel driving, the reward is a sunset on an Amazonian scale.

We had to climb up a dune to witness it, but the sensation of fine granules of cold sand under our bare feet was unforgettable.

Back in the centre of Dubai city, five minutes away from the Dubai World Trade Centre, lies the Shangri-La Hotel (our final port of call). On the fourth floor of this 43-storey tower complex, I relaxed on a sun lounger alongside an azure swimming pool.

With a pina colada in one hand and the latest issue of In-Style in the other, I contemplated the holistic spa treatments - Chi Indulgence or Uplifting Journey? At the sophisticated Shangri-La, slick service always comes with a smile.

With nine restaurants to choose from on our final night, we opted for Vietnamese.

The Saigon's street vendor soup with seafood, followed by caramelised fresh water prawns with coconut juice and chilli flakes, was truly out of this world - and was splendidly washed down by Veuve Clicquot.

At night, Dubai swings. There are endless wine bars and Arabic nightclubs.

Hot spots for visitors are clubs such as Tangerine at The Fairmont and the Karaoke Lounge at the Hyatt Regency. But for the nearest thing to the 1,001 Nights and old-fashioned glamour, find a magic carpet to whisk you to The One & Only Royal Mirage, with Moorish architecture which will instantly seduce you.

The nightclub is spectacular, but so too is the Arabian Courtyard, where hookahs (Egyptian waterpipes) are in abundance and the sweet smell of flavoured shisha tobacco fills the air - you may even see a sheik.

TRAVELFACTS

* Sam Moritz travelled to Dubai as a guest of the Dubai Department of Tourism. For a Dubai information pack, call 020 7839 0580, e-mail dtcmukdubaitourism.ae or visit www.dubaitourism.ae

* British Airways operates 17 flights a week from London Heathrow to Dubai with prices from £335.90 return, including taxes. Visit www.ba.com or call 0870 850 9850. Ex-Manchester, BA flights to Dubai start at £418.70 and from Glasgow £419.20.

l Check out Travelbag (0870 814 6544) Airline Network (0870 234 9913) and Kuoni Travel (01306 747 008) for holiday deals.