We didn't dare sneak the knife belt into Jamaica. At my advancing age, it had been embarrassing enough buying a white belted bikini in Debenhams in York. As my fellow shoppers and staff looked on, the words "mid-life crisis" were hanging in the air, unspoken. What no one realised was I was on a secret mission - to recreate the most famous scene in 007 history, the birth of the Bond Woman.

We were staying at Starfish Trelawny Beach and Fun Resort near Falmouth, a family resort on the island's northern coast. To the unsuspecting, my husband Ian, son Jack and I looked like any normal family on holiday but we were, in fact, exploring exotic locations that have made Bond movies unmissable for more than 40 years. We may have been spotted often on the resort's water slides, but our alter egos went in search of glamour and sophistication.

Wherever you go in Jamaica, a James Bond scene was shot nearby. Yet the island hasn't capitalised on its 007 fame. There may be the odd Moonraker Bar, but they don't line the streets. This minimalist approach maintained our interest in the films' locations, which locals enjoy reminiscing about.

Our first port of call was Laughing Waters beach at Crab Key, where Ursula Andress as Honey Ryder emerged from the sea in her now famous bikini for the first Bond film, Dr No, in 1962. It was here that Honey asked: "What are you doing? Looking for shells?" and Bond famously replied: "No, I'm just looking."

Another 15 minutes east from here is Dunns River Falls, a spectacular, cascading 600-foot waterfall, which can be climbed from the white sand beach. Special shoes can be hired and the dress code is swimwear. This is where Honey, Bond and Quarrel bathed and Honey asked Bond if he had ever seen scorpions sting themselves to death. All resorts offer excursions here - but if you do it yourself the entry fee is minimal, as are locker and shoe hire. Nearby and well worth a visit is Dolphin Cove, where visitors can cuddle snakes and watch dolphins playing.

A must-see for all Bond fans is Goldeneye, which James Bond author Ian Fleming bought in 1946. Goldeneye is at Oracabessa in the St Mary district, about two hours east of Montego Bay Airport. We travelled there by car, but many Goldeneye guests use the aerodrome at Boscobel.

Once a 15-acre plot of overgrown land that had been a donkey racecourse, Goldeneye is now a glamorous holiday hideaway. Early last year supermodel Kate Moss was there with Jefferson Hack to rekindle their romance ahead of her 30th birthday in London.

Fleming wrote all 13 books at Goldeneye, which he designed himself with giant glassless windows to create the feeling of being outdoors. His original writing desk has remained there since his death in 1964 and the estate is now owned by Chris Blackwell of Island Records.

A stay at the three-bedroomed house starts at $2,600 per night - while a night in one of the villas on the estate costs from $695. Ian and I sat high on a ledge in the hill to eat achee, a national fish dish, prepared by our personal chef, while Jack was less impressed with his surroundings and requested a bag of crisps.

Although Jamaica is best known for being the location for Dr No, the island was used as the fictional San Monique for parts of Live and Let Die.

Just along the coast from our resort was the J Charles Swaby Safari Swamp, which carries the warning Trespassers Will Be Eaten. Wildlife expert Dwayne Smith gave us a fantastic tour of the swamp where Bond stuntman Ross Kananga fell into the crocodiles, leaving him in need of 102 stitches. Even the shack, which Bond sets alight after fleeing the pack of hungry crocodiles, remains.

There are 29 crocodiles at the swamp. We watched in horror as Dwayne agitated some so we could see those snapping jaws in action. We nodded a polite hello to a croc who had bitten off a fisherman's arm and stroked a five-year-old crocodile while Dwayne held those jaws firmly shut. Only when Dwayne emerged holding a one-day-old crocodile did our heartbeats start to calm.

After immersing ourselves in the Bond locations - some scary, some sophisticated - we found ourselves strangely affected by the high life. Back at our resort, we dined in the exclusive Casablanca restaurant, which boasts a cocktail list James Bond would have been proud of, shaken not stirred by an expert waitress Avion.

I went along to our Spa for one of those Caribbean massage and pampering sessions, perfect for any Bond Girl, starting with a peppermint scrub, followed by a Swedish massage for my tense shoulders after visiting the crocodiles, and ending with a facial.

At nearby Braco, a five star Grand Lido resort for adults only, there is a collection of quaint Victorian architecture built around the cobbled Town Square. But be sure of your directions - half the resort is for naturists. Dining is extra special and romantic at Braco, whether you're in the Victorian Market, a buffet-style restaurant, or being serenaded by a harpist at the elegant Piacere.

A new attraction to Jamaica is the Canopy Tour. More George of the Jungle than James Bond, we donned harnesses to swing through the treetops, look down through the rain forest and view the gorge of the Great River.

The build-up was more frightening than the tour. Climbing high into the mountains in a Landrover, there were jokes about the danger awaiting us. But stringent security checks were carried out before and after every move.

The most frightening part was the first traverse - after that, the going was easy. We had hopes of spotting exotic birds as we whizzed between platforms, but all we saw was a green lizard on a tree. Maybe it is true that wildlife can smell fear.

And so our travels to rediscover James Bond - and update his adventures with a touch of modern-day Tarzan - left us exhilarated, but definitely in need of a vodka martini, shaken, not stirred, of course.

TRAVELFACTS

Airtours Holidays offer a seven-night, all-inclusive stay at Starfish Trelawny Beach and Fun Resort, near Falmouth, Jamaica, from £734 per person (£634 for children). Telephone 0870 238 7788, or visit www.airtours.co.uk

We travelled to Manchester Airport with Transpennine Express, telephone 0845 6001671 or www.firstgroup.com/tpexpress. Before our flight we stayed at the Crowne Plaza at Manchester Airport www.crowneplaza.com

For information about Goldeneye stays, visit www.islandoutpost.com For details of Grand Lido Braco, visit www.grandlido.com and for Canopy Tours go to www.chukkablue.com The Jamaica Tourist Board can be reached on 0207 224 0505, or go to www.visitjamaica.com