Mention the Dordogne, Loire Valley or Provence and any seasoned traveller's eyebrows will raise in recognition. But say you have just come back from Franche-Comt and it is greeted by a furrowed brow followed by "France where?".

It is one of the lesser known parts of France. And this hidden corner is sold as such by its tourist board. Featuring the lush beauty of the Dordogne with its deep valleys and waterways and a rich history to rival other parts of this vast country, Franche-Comt, with its uncrowded spaces on the border of Switzerland, is an outdoor paradise. Hiking, biking, horse riding trails, boating, angling, spa treatments - the area has it all and more.

There is nothing like a rail journey to unwind. Starting in the first class comfort of GNER, I make my way to London, followed by a swift transfer to Waterloo, before being whisked through the Channel Tunnel for a seamless transition to France.

Besancon, with its dramatic hilltop castle is our first overnight rendezvous, before a drive to the verdant Place d' Ornans for a flash lesson in fly fishing, on the sparkling river Loue. This is a genteel sport for the patient. But right now there are places to see and things to do. Our host does not disappoint, pulling out a hapless tiddler before unceremoniously throwing it back, after we all have a gawp at it - as if we've never seen a fish before. For those wishing to linger longer, a day's fishing will set you back a mere ten euros, or 45 for the week.

From there it is on to beautiful Source du Lison waterfall, and then to Sains les Bains for a spot of spa treatment, where we are given water in every form. First it's a hydromassage, which evokes whoops of surprise from the different cubicles as the taps are turned on and we are pummelled by jets of water. The outside world and every care along with it disappears in a haze of self indulgence. After a Turkish bath, sauna and swim, any residue of stress is well washed away.

Lunch is taken at L'Auberge du Pont du Diable in Crouzet-Migette. Everything is homegrown and raised, including the chicken, which has probably been slaughtered outside the back door. It certainly tastes as though it has had the run of the yard - nothing remotely like your common supermarket variety. A blackberry tart washed down with the finest of peach wines sees us ready to delve into the cave at Osselle.

It is the 500th year the attraction has been open to the public, making it one of the oldest visitable caves in the world. Given tourists' liking for taking souvenirs, it is really impressive just how many of the rock formations the cave still has, although you can see where some have been broken off. But it could do without the rather forlorn looking stuffed bears. Our night is spent in the plush surrounds of the Chateaux de Germigney, in the village of Port Lesney.

Next day, with glorious sunshine falling through dappled leaves, we are given the full range of outdoor activities, starting with cycling at Saone Plaisance, taking a leisurely ride up the Saone to Seveux Savoyeux; using just enough energy to build up an appetite for lunch at Deux Ports in the harbour at Chassey Les Scey. The menu includes trout (local, of course) and freshwater crayfish.

After three minutes of instruction behind the rudder of a speedboat, we are off on a tour of the canals and waterways. No danger of racing each other though, as our boats are firmly anchored on a lazy ten knots. There are more than 200 miles of navigable waterways between Saone and Doubs, alternating between river and canals. And for those seeking to spend their time on the water there is a range of boats designed for families.

We make our way to the Saone Valley to find our landfeet and to lose them again by spending the evening fortifying our spirits with locally produced liqueurs and the famous (or infamous, in some quarters) absinthe.

Our host, Hugues de Miscault, whose family owns the Paul Devoille Distillery, is at pains to dispel the myths about the fabled drink.

We are told that Vincent van Gogh drank a lot of it but it had nothing to do with him cutting off his ear. In fact, any talk of it inducing madness was all a fallacy, Hugues assures us. If anything it was wine growers anxious to preserve their industry who fed the bad press. And the lurid Absinthe Murder in Switzerland in 1905, where a man shot his entire family after drinking absinthe, did not help. The fact that he had also consumed several litres of wine and a considerable amount of brandy was overlooked by the prohibitionists and, by 1910, absinthe was banned in Switzerland and by 1914, in France.

The drink now has a renewed respectability and Hugues shows us the art of drinking it. The traditional ritual is to pour ice-cold water over a cube of sugar on a slotted spoon held over the glass of absinthe. The dissolves the sugar to mix with the drink, forming a luminous green cloud. It does have a kick to it and very distinctive taste.

Then to the cherry brandy. Hugues has about every conceivable variation and, having tasted his finest, how can we possibly turn down an invitation to the highlight of the social calendar here - the Miss Cherry contest? And Hugues just happens to be one of the judges. It is like a trip back in time as we watch the hopefuls go through their paces, cheered on by a crowd of neck-craning young men.

This is serious stuff. Not all the girls look comfortable, some no doubt having been dragooned into the event. In the end the lucky one is crowned, and our driver takes a bedraggled bunch of journalists back to their hotel.

The next morning we meet at Ecromagny Town Hall for an easy meander through the Le Plateau des 1,000 Etangs (or plateau of 1,000 ponds for those who are counting) - an idyllic network of lakes and ponds.

To wrap it up we take a flight from the Monbliard Aeroclub to get a bird's eye view of where we have spent the last few days.

And that is Franche-Comt. For those who have never heard of the place, it's a hidden corner deserving discovery.

TRAVELFACTS

For further information contact Comit Rgional du Tourisme de Franche-Comt 25025 Besanon Cedex. www.franche-comte.org

France Information Line: 09068244123

Transport: Raileurope: Standard return fares to Besancon cost from £79 (Eurostar + TGV). Reservation line:08705 848 848

www.raileurope.co.uk

GNER provides frequent train services linking Durham, Darlington, Northallerton and York with London King's Cross. Standard class return fares start from £19 return (York & Northallerton) or £20 return (Darlington & Durham). To book, call GNER Telesales on 08457 225 225, visit the GNER website at www.gner.co.uk or visit any staffed National Rail station