ASSUMING that readers will at some point want to try the restaurants reviewed in this column, I always deliberate over a fair but realistic score rating.

But no deliberation was needed in pressing diners to book at Bailie's in Barnard Castle, which both hubby Peter and I agreed was a Perfect 4, and the best meal we've had in months. And booking is necessary, with up to 30 weekend diners turned away if they have not had the foresight to call early in the week.

Bailie's opened on The Bank in Barnard Castle 15 months ago and the fact that we haven't tried it before is our loss. It's a real family concern and it shows. Named after chef Harry Bailie, it's run by him, his wife Claire, and her parents, Tony and Susan Turner.

Mr Turner, a former finance director, was enjoying retirement on the golf course when his son-in-law approached him about going into business at the former Oldfield's restaurant.

"Harry had been poached from the Royal County Hotel to work at Durham County Cricket Club but when the franchise changed, he wanted a place of his own," he said.

Mrs Bailie had heard Oldfield's was up for sale, but when her husband checked it out the sold sign was up.

"I went round to the estate agents to see what else they had on the books, and found it was back on the market that day, so it must have been fate," he said.

Brought up in Rugby, he honed his skills in London, spending some time at the Ritz before working in Hong Kong.

But he's now happy working with his family, and somewhat unbelievably does all the cooking for the 44 covers and still finds time to have a word with all his diners during the course of the evening.

"I have a super piece of equipment from Switzerland called a Holdamat," he said. "It is like having another chef in the kitchen and means I can prepare a great deal in advance."

When we arrived it was to a friendly smile from Mr Turner. Our coats were taken and after being comfortably seated we were expertly served by his equally friendly wife. The surroundings are quite minimalist while still managing to be intimate, with big squashy sofas to relax with a drink or coffee. Despite the evening being busy - there were two parties in - nothing was too much trouble. We asked for descriptions of various dishes, and although the menu had undergone its three-monthly change only that night, Mrs Turner was up to speed with the ingredients.

Five starters were on offer, ranging from £3.65 to £5.75, and I plumped for steamed mussels in a light saffron and white wine cream sauce. They were succulent and plentiful and the sauce as light as promised. But still I couldn't resist having a taste of Peter's choice of Thai spiced salad of seared scallops, smoked bacon and mange tout, which he called "an exciting starter".

The scallops were perfect, the bacon crisp and the dressing to die for. The first surprise happened moments after tasting, giving a kick of chilli before the perfume of cardamom took over. Sensational, and my choice next time, darling. Other choices included roast parsnip and butternut squash soup, foie gras and chicken liver parfait, and chargrilled asparagus with blue cheese and tomato salad and dressing.

The mains provided ten choices, from £11.50 to £17, including two vegetarian. Peter went for breast of duck with a hot and sour syrup on a bed of sauteed greens, which he called a wholesome portion.

"I love duck and this was one of the best I've ever tasted. The sauce only served to enhance the flavour," he added.

Like a bairn in a sweetie shop, I wanted everything, eventually settling for roast rump of lamb with a mint pea and parsnip puree and red wine jus. The lamb was perfect; slightly pink, sweet and yummy so that just writing this made my mouth water with the memory. A separate dish of vegetables was brought containing sliced potatoes, carrots, baby sweetcorn, broccoli, red cabbage, courgettes and French beans.

As full as bed ticks, we requested a half-hour break before attempting a pud. I was going for the cheeseboard, which had an interesting sounding beer and nettle variety, when I spotted my all-time favourite, creme brulee. Flavoured with Bailey's Irish Cream, not only did it have the required burnt caramel topping, it came with a layer of gorgeously brittle praline. It surpassed a memorable one at a top southern restaurant frequented by film producer and food critic, Michael Winner. What more can I say except that Peter utterly refuted it could taste any better than his rhubarb and ginger cheesecake.

"It was altogether different," he said. "The flavours were distinctive and the consistency superb."

Neither of us was driving, so with a bottle of £9.95 Italian red and a couple of good espressos, the bill came to £58.35.

Bailie's also has a lunchtime menu offering hot dishes and sandwiches.

Both wives work at full-time posts outside the business, but I think if Bailie's continues to grow - and there are hopes of summer barbecues and a possible tapas bar - then it's time to give up the day job