Tucked beneath low rocky cliffs on the Northumberland coast lies a beach so secluded that even seasoned locals often overlook it, yet it once served as the private bathing spot of a British prime minister and his family of 16 children.
A secluded cove with a nickname
Howick Sands, also known as Rumbling Kern, sits south of Cullernose Point near Howick Hall, between the villages of Craster and Longhoughton.
Its evocative nickname comes from the distinctive rumbling sound created as waves crash into the rocky outcrops lining the shore, a sensory detail that has made the beach a favourite among walkers seeking somewhere quieter than the region's larger, better-known bays.
The beach itself is small, a mix of sand and rock tucked beneath low cliffs, with rock pooling among its main attractions for visitors exploring the shoreline.
It's considered a closely guarded secret among Northumberland coast connoisseurs, sheltered behind small cliffs that face inland away from the open sea.
The Bathing House built for Earl Grey's family
Overlooking the beach stands the Bathing House, a striking building constructed in the early 1800s by Charles, 2nd Earl Grey, the British prime minister after whom Earl Grey tea is named.
It was built for one simple purpose, to give the Grey family a private base from which to enjoy sea bathing, a popular pursuit among the era's wealthy families.
With 16 children to accommodate, the Earl likely needed every inch of space the building could offer.
The house survives today and has been converted into a holiday rental, allowing modern visitors the rare chance to stay in a building with direct ties to one of Britain's most significant political reformers.
Home to the Earls Grey since 1319
Howick's history stretches back centuries longer than its famous bathing house.
The Grey family has owned the surrounding estate since 1319, with Howick Hall itself built in 1782 to replace an earlier medieval tower house.
Charles, 2nd Earl Grey, served as prime minister from 1830 to 1834, steering through the landmark Great Reform Bill of 1832, a pivotal moment in the development of modern British democracy.
The area's connection to the Greys extends well beyond politics.
Earl Grey tea itself is said to have been specially blended for the family to complement the taste of the spring water at Howick, later marketed commercially by Twinings after proving a hit among London society.
A coastline with deeper history
Long before the Greys arrived, the wider Howick coastline had already been settled for thousands of years, with evidence of Mesolithic settlements and Iron Age hillforts found in the surrounding area.
The shore has also witnessed more recent history, including shipwrecks recorded along this stretch of coast during the 20th century.
Read more
This quiet Northumberland village has a castle and an award-winning beach
Inside Northumberland fortress dubbed Britain’s ‘most haunted’ castle
Why this well-known Northumberland village is more than just its castle
Exploring Howick Sands today
Howick Sands is dog-friendly all year round, though there are no facilities on site, so visitors are advised to bring supplies for a picnic.
There is no dedicated car park, meaning the beach is best reached on foot via the Northumberland Coast Path, either from Howick Hall Gardens or as part of a longer circular walk taking in Craster and the wider coastline.
For those wanting to combine the visit with more of the Grey family's legacy, nearby Howick Hall Gardens and Arboretum are open to the public daily, complete with an Earl Grey Tea House serving the very blend that made the family's name famous worldwide.
Share