What we thought of the food at The Angel Inn, Topcliffe

Most obviously, it is a fact that the pub business is a tough one. I won’t bore you with the latest stats about pub closures, but they are frightening.

Less obviously, pubs are often run by people who are totally unsuited to the job.

There are those naïve souls who respond to those appealing signs outside pub company (pubco)-owned hostelries: “Fancy running this pub?”

Sounds superficially attractive. We all love to be in the pub so why not make it your place of work?

But take on a pub tenancy agreement and it’s not long before the bright-eyed and optimistic new tenant learns that making a success of the deal is usually loaded against them. Within six months, maybe 12, they hand the keys back.

Pub managers may not have that burden to shoulder but they are often poorly paid for the level of responsibility they hold.

And then there are the souls lucky enough to be able to buy a pub’s freehold. But do they have a right business head, and the experience, to make it work?

Often their motives are as suspect as those hapless pubco tenants. Like those who think they will buy a pub because they like beer. Idiots! Everyone knows that these days serving decent beer is about ten per cent of what makes a successful pub.

Or those who simply don’t have the personality for the hospitality business. Who think that customers are a bit of an inconvenience. Who combine the incompetence of Basil Fawlty with the charm of Victor Meldrew.

I’m sure you all can think of a landlord or lady who fits the bill.

Then you have couples like Maggie and Dave Mathews, owners of The Angel Inn at Topcliffe, near Thirsk.

I can’t tell you just how charming and personable they are as mine hosts as I have never met them. But it is evident that they know how to run a successful pub – and this one in particular.

Their story suggests that they are well and truly invested in The Angel in more ways than one.

They met for the first time in The Angel 30 years ago.

They later worked together at well-established hostelries The Bruce Arms at West Tanfield and The Staveley Arms at North Stainley. Dave is an experienced chef and Maggie runs everything ‘front of house’.

They live in Topcliffe and three years ago the opportunity for them to buy the pub where they met led to the purchase and a full-scale refurb and refit.

It’s a long time since I was last at The Angel but the transformation appears to have been comprehensive – and cost a pretty penny. Okay it may not be the most characterful North Yorkshire pub but it is smart and contemporary without being blingy.

On an early week lunchtime – when many rural pubs don’t bother to open – it was really busy.

The staff were efficient, charming and personable, getting us seated in the front bar area with menus and drinks – which included a pint of Nowt Peculier, that’s Theakston’s no-alcohol version of their most famous brew.

I tend not to talk about beer in this column because I can’t say I’m really an expert but I did think this was the best version of an alcohol-free cask ale I’ve ever tasted.

There’s a full range of food available on a lunchtime from sandwiches up to substantial meals – which was a good thing because Sylvia just wanted soup and a sandwich and I was feeling for something more.

Her tomato and basil soup of the day, served with some lovely rolls and herby butter, was deeply flavourful and, for a simple bowl of soup, beautifully presented.

It was a good thing she liked it because if you order a sandwich which she did, you also get a teacupful of the soup of the day, along with some salad and a small portion of fries. There was plenty of ham hock terrine in the sandwich too.

My asparagus, with grilled octopus, poached egg and drill of crispy panko breadcrumbs was a textural triumph – the fleshy asparagus, the springy, yielding octopus, the creaminess of the egg yolk and the panko crunch.

There was lots going on with my seabass salad – two perfectly-cooked seabass fillets atop some samphire, anchovy fillets, cos lettuce, Parmesan shavings, croutons and sprigs of dill. It was a supercharged Caesar salad.

A cracking lunch served in lovely surroundings by a great team for just over £60. This is how to create and run a good village pub.

The Angel

Long Street, Topcliffe, Thirsk YO7 3RW

Tel: 01845 578000 Web: theangelinntopcliffe.com

Open: Mon-Fri 7.30-9.30am (breakfast), noon-2.30pm and 5.30-9pm; Sat 8-10am, noon-2.30pm and 5.30-9pm; Sun 8-10am and noon-6pm

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 10 Service 9 Surroundings 8 Value 9