USUALLY when a new venue opens, the Eating Out column gives it a few months before paying a visit – it's only fair to allow places time to fully get going before casting a critical eye over their food, service, set-up and pricing.
But I'd heard such good things about The Stones Café in Great Broughton, near Stokesley, that on this occasion, I just couldn't wait.
Opened just last month, it is part of The Wainstones Hotel – named after the famous rocky outcrop in the Cleveland Hills above the village – and also has a little shop selling essentials and local produce.
The independently-owned hotel has been given a striking makeover, with colourful artwork on the walls, plush sofas, and in one of the private dining rooms, a floor-to-ceiling blossom tree covered in pink flowers.
The bright theme is continued in the new adjoining café, where the outside seating is (mercifully) sheltered from the sun by shocking pink parasols, while at other external tables, the seats are fun plastic teacups.
I'd arranged to meet writer Jan Hunter, a long-time contributor to Echo sister paper the D&S Times for lunch, and a few minutes early, I had a look around outside.
The revamp of the hotel is still so new that the roadside sign was being polished up by two chaps in a cherrypicker, while staff were cleaning off the footpaths outside the hotel front door. One new feature I'm sure will come in handy is a mini bike repair station by the roadside – after all, this is popular cycling country. A thoughtful touch.
Jan and I met last Friday, and with the sun scorching down, we managed to get one of the last tables inside where it was thankfully much cooler.
Opposite the café entrance is a display cabinet packed with beautifully-presented sweet treats that were as pretty as they looked tasty, while the next-door counter was covered in pastries.
Aside from the baking though, what really catches the eye is the decor. Velvety, deep-green seats, rich, patterned wallpaper with huge golden leaves and masses of those imitation pink blossoms give an effect that wouldn't be out of place in a city centre cocktail bar, never mind a country café.
But, with the sun beaming in through the vast windows, and the hills just peeping above the rooftops beyond the car park, it really does work.
The menu is equally impressive – a full page of breakfast options ranging in price from £2.95 for a croissant to £13.95 for the all-day breakfast (veggie and gluten-free versions available).
Lunch choices are similarly plentiful – and interesting. One is called simply "party in your mouth" and advises that it will need a knife and fork to eat – avocado and curry mayo chicken with a fried egg on homemade sourdough (£13.95).
Perhaps it was the heatwave, but we both decided on cooler-sounding options.
My sandwich came served with salad leaves – and a nicely sharp dressing – coleslaw, and gaufrette potatoes – a thin, crispy waffle-type addition that went down very well.
The sandwich perhaps wasn't what I was expecting, having huge chunks of pepper alongside the aubergine, but it was a really interesting combination of flavours, and felt like a nice, easygoing, summery dish.
Jan's salad – not what I would call a petite portion – was a thing of beauty. Without naming every ingredient, it was heaped with spiced cous cous, grilled veg, edamame beans, slaw, new potatoes and leaves, plus a few slices of green apple, and seemed a lot of food for £4.95.
Jan really enjoyed all the colours, tastes and textures, while her quiche, billed as "mismatch" spinach, feta and basil, had wonderfully wonky pastry, but was lovely and light.
We had saved space for desserts, Jan choosing the "tart for tea" (£4.95) – matcha egg custard tart with mousse and raspberry jellies.
For some reason (perhaps I'd had too much sun) I chose the sweet Yorkshire pudding, which came with hazelnut mousse and caramel sauce. It was a nonsense decision because I don't really love extra-sweet food, and I should have known better.
I was, in the end, overwhelmed by the choux pud, with its cloying toppings, but it was definitely worth ordering just to see how pretty it was.
Likewise, Jan's choice was a little piece of art, thoroughly in keeping with the pretty surroundings. It was the perfect size, delicately flavoured, and absolutely delicious.
The servers were uniformly lovely, and even though they were seriously busy, took the time to answer our questions about the menu, and explain the story of the hotel's makeover.
As to why our table was called "Kelli" and not just allocated a random number, it was because staff were given the opportunity to name them after family members. Another lovely feature in a project that has clearly been carried out with real care for its community.
Our bill, with two coffees and a soft drink, came to £39.75 – good value we thought.
Despite the heat, and it being well past lunchtime, more and more customers were arriving as we headed out.
It's clear word has already spread far and wide about this smart, stylish new venue, and what it has to offer.
With the hotel itself also now back open, it looks like the Wainstones is about to become as much of a visitor destination in its own right as the landmark in the hills above.
Recommended reading:
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- What we thought of our meal at this busy North East seaside pub
The Stones Café
The Wainstones Hotel, High Street, Great Broughton, Stokesley, TS9 7EW.
Phone: 01642 712268
Open Mon-Fri, 7.30am-6pm, Saturdays, 8am-6pm and Sundays 8.30am-4pm
Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 9 Surroundings 10 Service 9 Value for money 9
