REVIEW: An authentic Italian fare at Valentino's in Ripon

Our previous visit was the first time we had ventured out after the long first lockdown in 2020. Perhaps not surprisingly given the special circumstances – that first taste of freedom after months of eating at home and takeaway meals – we thought it was bloody marvellous.

It’s still bloody marvellous, I’m pleased to say. The seafood platter with a whole grilled lobster may now cost an arm and a good chunk of a leg but it’s worth every penny.

Having reviewed the Ox only two years ago we couldn’t do it again so a few days later we went on official business to Valentino’s, Ripon – for their four-day lobster festival. Despite the well-reported problems affecting stocks of shellfish off the coast of the North-East and Yorkshire, there appears to be plenty of the critters about.

There was certainly enough for Valentino’s Aragosta event with a special menu featuring these majestic marine crustaceans in a wide range of dishes – pasta, risotto, pizza, plainly grilled and with the classic Thermidor sauce.

As you might have guessed from the previous paragraph (and deduced that aragosta is Italian for lobster), Valentino’s is an Italian restaurant. It has been a fixture in the city since the 1980s. Originally family run, the owners today have connections in one form or another with the di Silvestro brothers who established the business almost 40 years ago.

Valentino’s, on Westgate, Ripon

Does it still feel like an Italian family concern? Well, up to a point. The staff were certainly friendly and welcoming but our problem was the rather soulless feel to the place. Despite it being a busy Saturday evening with most tables taken, there wasn’t much atmosphere. The view of Westgate, one of the feeder routes to the city’s market place, is less than inspiring.

Sylvia felt the plain lemon walls, laminate flooring and curiously uncomfortable bentwood and metal chairs created an ambience which was more dentist’s waiting room than anything else.

Valentino’s, on Westgate, Ripon

There was also a bit of hiccup with the service early on when the bottle of prosecco (£21.95) we had ordered arrived at the table manifestly unchilled. A chilled bottle was produced and the waitress asked me to check the bottle was cold enough “before I open another bottle unnecessarily”. That was me told then.

Whether she sensed my irritation at being rather unsubtly ‘told off’ I don’t know but thereon after service was very good.

Our food was fair to brilliant.

We shared a very generous platter of golden focaccia bread, olives, breadsticks and balsamic vinegar which was just £5.95 and would have been okay for four people.

Sylvia’s main course pollo caprese (£15.95) was notable for the fresh and very herby tomato, basil and mozzarella sauce, less so for the chicken which was a little on the dry side. It came with a small vegetable garnish (ribbon courgette, carrot and beans) and some chips and rice.

My main fettuccini with lobster (£16.95) was really very good but not for the reason I expected.

Fettuccini with lobster at Valentino's in Ripon

The lobster (a half with the tail meat scooped out, sauteed in garlic butter with some chilli, cherry tomato) was beautifully succulent but the star of the very pretty plateful – complete with bright red edible nasturtium flower, which Sylvia tucked behind her ear – was actually the pasta.

I’m not sure if it was actually homemade but it was top-quality nevertheless and cooked to bang-on al dente.

Further evidence that the kitchen is capable of producing truly authentic fare came in the form of a dreamy zabaglione (£6.95).

This classic dessert has just three ingredients but it has to be made absolutely fresh and this was just sublime with just the right amount of creamy frothiness, some residual heat and a good alcoholic hit from the Marsala. The Savoiardi (lady fingers) biscuit was perfect for dipping in the golden cup of custardy nectar.

Zabaglione, a classic dessert with just three ingredients

With a decent latte (£2.75) for Sylvia, the bill just topped £70 – which was just a bit less than the Durham Ox’s superlative seafood platter. For a meal featuring lobster that has to be considered a bit of a deal.

There is clearly great skill in the kitchen – that dry-ish chicken notwithstanding. They just need to do something to make the dining area a little more appealing. For what it’s worth Sylvia’s interior design advice was either to strip it right back and make a virtue of its latent minimalism – or go to the opposite extreme and give it the full blingy, Capodimonte, OTT look. The zabaglione alone deserves it.

Valentino’s

14 Westgate, Ripon HG4 2AT

Tel: 01765 604201 Web: www.valentinosripon.co.uk

Open: Wednesday-Saturday 5-10pm, Sunday 5-9pm

Ratings: Food quality 8 Service 7 Surroundings 6 Value 9