IT IS often best to walk one way along a river rather than repeat the return on the opposite bank. On this walk taking a bus to the start and returning alongside the River Ure is the best plan to ensure there are surprises along the way.
Take the bus from Masham to Middleham and return south alongside the Ure. The no 159 leaves Masham market place at 10.15 (at present, please check) and takes 20 minutes. Middleham is a very attractive Dales' village – one of the best. The castle – which overlooks the village – is worth a visit. You'll find it via a series of cobbled streets from the market place.
To start the walk take the main road heading east for a quarter of a mile from the end of the village to a farm lane heading south. Continue down the lane for three quarters of a mile to the River Cover. The lane becomes a footpath as it approaches the river. Turn left and follow the river through fields to Cover Bridge, the stepping stones opposite will probably be under water after the recent weather, so do not attempt them.
There is a traditional Dales' pub at Cover Bridge – situated on a fine pack horse bridge. It sits on the River Cover, just 150 metres from the confluence with the River Ure.
The next mile of this ever-changing walk is a real pleasure. The path sticks close to the river (Cover soon becoming the Ure) as it passes serenely through the landscape of the area. As well as walkers it is popular with fishermen…do watch out for the legendary ‘kelpie’ fish which allegedly leaps out to devour its victims. The path follows a mix of woodland and open walking until it arrives at the ruins of Jervaulx Abbey, once a Cistercian Abbey. Today the ruins create only a part impression of the size and power of the abbey's past.
After exploring the remains of the abbey – set amongst the wild flowers, trees and shrubs which have been allowed to grow up within its walls – take the main track/road which crosses through the grounds of Jervaulx Abbey...a well preserved park full of sheep and deer (although I've never seen the deer!). After passing the gate house at the edge of the estate turn left at the road and follow this down to Kilgram Bridge. Although it was the monks who originally built this fine bridge, if you lean over the side and look carefully into the running water you'll be able to see the foundations of an old Roman road, part of a ford for their legions on their way north.
Return a few metres south past Kilgram Grange to a path heading parallel to the river. Keep the river in view as the path winds its way for two miles (sometimes difficult to see on the ground) before arriving in the attractive village of Low Ellington. Head south east alongside some higher ground on a path past a small plantation and bend left back towards the river bank. The path then heads south to some marshy/wet ground before arriving at the wetlands reserve of Marland. Follow the marked paths through the reserve. You exit the wetlands at its southern end just a few hundred metres from the outskirts of Masham. The reserve makes an interesting end to this walk full of contrasts.
WALK FACTS
Distance: Roughly 11.5 miles.
Height to Climb: 130m (430 feet)
Start: SE 127878. The bus drops you in the centre of Middleham.
Difficulty: Medium. The paths may be muddy and wet in places.
Refreshments: There is plenty of pubs and cafes in Masam. There is a café at Jervaulx Abbey and a pub at Cover Bridge enroute.
Be Prepared:
The route description and sketch map only provide a guide to the walk. You must take out and be able to read a map (O/S Explorer OL30 & 302) and in cloudy/misty conditions a compass. You must also wear the correct clothing and footwear for the outdoors. Whilst every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers head out at their own risk.
Please observe the Countryside Code and park sensibly.
Jonathan Smith runs Where2walk, a walking company in the Yorkshire Dales. He has published two books on the Dales – The Yorkshire 3 Peaks and The Dales 30 which are available on his website and from local outdoor/book shops. Regular one and two-day Navigation Training Courses available throughout the year in the Dales. The dates are on the website. Private Guiding Days in the Dales, Lakes & Moors. For more details on other walks, courses or to buy the books visit Where2walk.co.uk
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