KIPPERS. Fish and chips, of course. And, for good seafood measure, crab, bought if not straight from a boat at least from a harbourside stall. But for those who know their Whitby really well there is a pair of epicurean delights not linked to the sea.

They’re buns. One is an ice bun, known as a lemon bun from its tangy yet delicate taste. The particular flavour is unique to this bun, and the same goes for its companion. Called a butter bun this is a cream bun of superb smoothness and subtle sweetness – the cream bun to die for.

Both these buns are signature products of Elizabeth Botham and Sons, Whitby bakers since 1865. Recently I saw it described as “Bettys by the sea”.

Well, it isn’t. Both rightly style themselves craft bakers – uppercrust from run-of-the-oven. But Bettys is out-and-out luxury. Its customers patronise it as an extravagance.

Back in 1919 Bettys’ founder had ocean-liner indulgence in mind when he launched his first tea room in well-heeled Harrogate.

But even if Elizabeth Botham, a no-nonsense matron, judging by the portrait that gazes down in one of her shops, had an eye on Whitby’s evolving tourist trade in 1865, her prime aim must have been to provide good wholesome fare to the hard-working Whitby folk.

Unlike Bettys, Botham’s still fulfils that local purpose.

But of course it also serves visitors and draws custom from elsewhere.

And the standard of its customer-care matches that of its products. Earlier this year an order prepared for my wife turned out to be incomplete when she unpacked it at home.

A phone call to the shop somehow ended with her speaking to top man Mike Jarman, an in-law descendant of the founder.

He offered to deliver the two missing items (japs if you must know) when he left work – a round trip of 60 miles. Assured that wasn’t necessary – my wife simply hoped to have the amount credited – he nonetheless sent a voucher worth significantly more than the items.

With it, on postcard of Botham’s main café in its Edwardian glory, was his handwritten message offering “my compliments and apologies”.

That’s how goodwill is won, or, in this case, cemented.

Of course Botham’s makes more than its exquisite buns – around 300 lines daily in fact. Its plumbread is another distinguishing product – an early hit online, where Botham’s was a pioneering presence.

BUT my essential mission today is to tell you something rather different.

Displayed in Botham’s two Whitby town-centre shops is a confectionary masterpiece. Revolving slowly, it is a tall iced cake representing Whitby.

From the harbour, with quayside and boats, not to mention a seal as well as fish, the huddled streets pile up.

Seagulls perch on the cottages and beach huts.

The whalebone arch is there, and round almost the entire, imaginative creation wind the famous steps, leading to the abbey, the crowning feature.

Truth to say, this marvellous expression of the confectioner’s art is more Bettys than Botham’s. So perhaps Botham’s can be dubbed “Bettys by the sea?”

Never. Botham’s doesn’t need defining by any other business, no matter how celebrated. Besides, if you look at that portrait of Elizabeth Botham you’d have to ask yourself – who’d dare to?