Ship shape

I T is doubtful whether pub landlords up and down the country would agree, but there is much to be said for life on the edge. Are there any finer counties in England than those at the extremes, Northumberland and Cornwall? And are there any better pubs than those which are anchored there under the name of the Ship?

It is about 100 years since Hilaire Belloc wrote: “If you should lose your inns, drown your empty selves, for you will have lost the last of England.”

Those words seem quite prophetic in the light of the current rate of pub closures, but while examining the wider attractions of England’s peripheries it is heartening to point out that the best-kept Ships continue to keep their heads well above water.

The phrase “nautical but nice” could have been coined for the bar in Seahouses’ Ye Olde Ship Hotel, with its warm ambience generated by a fascinating collection of seafaring memorabilia.

Unless you’re catching a boat to the Farnes, the Ship’s bar has long been the best reason to visit Seahouses, although the Hairy Bikers were apparently greatly impressed by the fish and chip restaurant just up the road.

Then there’s the wonderful Ship Inn a few miles down the coast at Low Newton by the Sea, while two Ships full of character which come sailing along the Cornish coast are at Porthleven and Mousehole.

While the Cornish pair are an essential part of fishing communities, the Low Newton pub is tucked away in the corner of a small square overlooking the beach. As there is little else to the hamlet; the pub relies on those doing the famous Craster to Beadnell walk or holidaymakers prepared to drive a few miles to sample the excellent food.

The enterprising owners also stage music evenings, but the most remarkable feature is the beer brewed on the premises, which is an absolute delight.

In passing, it should be noted that Ship Inns are occasionally marooned miles inland, as in the admirable pub in Middlestone Village, near Spennymoor, where several real ales continue to sell at £2 a pint.

But most of us like to be beside the seaside, and if there is a more attractive coastline in England than the stretch from Warkworth to Bamburgh it is surely to be found in Cornwall.

No wonder the saints came marching in here. From St Agnes down through St Ives and St Just, then along the south coast to St Austell there are saintly place names galore.

Despite the presence of Holy Island, Northumberland is not so blessed, with the glorious St Abbs lying just over the border in Scotland.

But there’s a place called Rock in both counties and they share more common ground in their gardens.

The Lost Gardens of Heligan, overlooking Mevagissey, are at least a match for those at Alnwick and provide good value at £10 as it is quite possible to spend four hours there.

The gardens were “lost” for about 50 years and the story of their restoration since the Eighties is almost as remarkable as the gardens themselves.

Although not as commercialised as Alnwick, Heligan may get too crowded for some tastes and it’s just as well that Cornwall also boasts Trebah, Prideaux Place, Pencarrow, Tresco Abbey and several more gardens.

The hidden jewel among the gardens attached to Northumberland’s stately homes is at Howick.

Lying just inland from the kipper capital of Craster, this is the home of the Grey family, who spawned a Prime Minister and gave their name to Earl Grey tea.

The only part of the house which is open to the public is the magnificent ballroom, which serves as a restaurant and is a delightful place to take refreshment after rambling into the wilder extremities of the estate.

There are none of the Alnwick crowds here, and similarly it should be stressed that the best times to visit Cornwall are when the summer hordes are absent.

It is said that if you can find a parking space in St Ives in high season it will cost a minimum of £5. But there are no such worries in autumn, when the attractions of the various sandy coves, quaint streets and Tate gallery can be appreciated in relative peace.

The one disappointment of the Cornish coastline is the theme park which now disfigures Land’s End. If you have to go, perhaps it is best approached by parking at Sennen Cove and walking the mile and a half along the clifftops.

A couple of miles further round the coast to the south is the extraordinary open-air Minack Theatre, with its tiered seating set in the cliffs, then it’s a further six miles to Mousehole.

Long before Rick Stein brought his celebrity cooking to Padstow, the Ship Inn at Mousehole was serving up the simple dish named Stargazy Pie.

Mousehole is perhaps best known for a lifeboat disaster, but it was the successful landing of a haul of fish in treacherous conditions which originally inspired the creation of Stargazy Pie, with fish heads sticking skywards through the crust.

Continuing round Mount’s Bay, Penzance lacks the charm of the villages thereabouts, the next of which is Marazion, where the crossing to St Michael’s Mount can be undertaken on foot via a causeway at low tide.

Shades of Holy Island, perhaps, but where Northumberland cannot rival Cornwall is in the variety provided to the coastline by the creeks.

By meandering round the coast towards Falmouth following a trip to the most southerly point on the Lizard, the contrasts can be fully appreciated.

The Helford River, flowing into Falmouth Bay, was the setting for Daphne du Maurier’s Frenchman’s Creek, and whether or not you’re a fan of her novels, the beautiful village of Helford itself should not be missed.

Further up the broad Fal estuary, near Mylor Bridge, is a waterside pub even more splendid than any of the Ships. There are lovely riverside walks in either direction, giving the perfect opportunity to work up a thirst and an appetite, both of which will be memorably catered for in the Pandora.

This is a very civilised old pub with open fires in several cosy rooms. It’s a far cry from the tackiness of Land’s End, but at least there you are surrounded by reminders of all those who have made the trek from John O’ Groats.

And you can remind yourself that it’s only half as far to Northumberland.

TRAVEL FACTS

The Olde Ship at Seahouses has accommodation at £50-£64 per person per night (01665-720200)

The Ship Inn at Mousehole has double rooms at £70-£95 per night (01736-731234)

Also highly recommended for food and drink: Ship Inn, Low Newton by the Sea (01665-576262); Ship Inn, Porthleven (01326-564204)