London calling

T AKING a large family on a whistle-stop tour around our capital city at half-term doesn’t sound like most people’s idea of a relaxing break. And since we only do it once every few years, we like to pack everything in.

“Wouldn’t you rather just laze by a pool at a secluded villa somewhere warm? You’ll be exhausted,”

said one friend. But with none of the driving, cooking, washing-up and laundry associated with a villa abroad, this city break actually allows the grown-ups much more time to relax and have fun too.

Besides, with four boys aged eight, 11, 15 and 17, I reckon I have now got the London trip down to a fine art. With so much for everyone, of all ages, to enjoy, the key is planning your itinerary with ruthless, military precision.

DAY ONE:

12.15PM: We arrived in London by train and I even managed to read a newspaper on the journey. Luxury.

I picked a hotel bang in the centre, so we could walk nearly everywhere. The smart, modern City Inn is close to the Houses of Parliament and ideally located for celebrity spotting, one of the boys’ favourite pastimes. We saw everyone from the BBC’s Nick Robinson to fertility expert Professor Robert Winston, as we walked past live TV interviews on the green every day.

2PM: Growing boys are always hungry, so I organised meals out in great locations which were an entertainment in themselves. We had a late lunch at Giraffe, a lively, family friendly restaurant at the front of the Festival Hall and looking out on the River Thames, just a short walk from our hotel. Nachos, spare ribs, tasty burgers and substantial salads, as well as delicious and extremely popular fresh fruit smoothies, were just what they needed.

This spot was ideal for people-watching and we enjoyed a whole range of colourful street entertainers just outside. We didn’t even have to rush, as Giraffe was just two minutes’ walk from our next activity, where the boys enjoyed getting close to sharks, turtles and stingrays inside the impressive Sealife Aquarium.

5.45PM: We emerged from our journey under the water to jump straight onto an Eye River Cruise on the surface. It was dusk and by now the city was starting to sparkle, slowly lighting up as we glided down the river, past stunning glass and steel modern constructions and elegant, historical buildings, accompanied by an informative and entertaining guide.

7PM: It was pitch black by the time we got to the top of the London Eye. The wraparound views, which even went under our feet, turned out to be just as good as I’d heard.

DAY TWO:

10AM: The Natural History Museum. One of the many things families can do in London for free. But you have to get there early, especially to see the dinosaur exhibition, if you don’t want to queue for several hours.

2PM: Carluccio’s Caffe, a popular neighbourhood restaurant with a really lively atmosphere, is just five minutes’ walk away from the museum. The boys were thrilled to meet dancer Wayne Sleep, who is a regular. We also saw a famous actor. Apparently, Frank Lampard and Gary Lineker are also regulars and it’s not hard to see why. This classic Italian menu, full of fresh, good-quality ingredients, has the talented chef Antonio Carluccio’s fingerprints all over it. The boys loved it so much, they asked if they could go back again. We did, for breakfast. Sadly for eight-year-old Albert, Frank wasn’t in.

3.30PM: It was a five-minute walk from Carluccio’s to the Science Museum, with lots of interactive, hands-on activities. I just wish we had left more time for this.

7.30PM Mamma Mia! The older boys are not big fans of musicals, but anything too serious would have gone over the head of our eightyear- old. Mamma Mia! was the perfect choice for everyone. From the platform heels and silver Lycra to the witty way all those familiar old Abba songs were woven through the plot, it was both funny and uplifting from start to finish. The whole audience, both young and old, rose to its feet at the end for the Abba-style tribute concert. And everyone left the theatre smiling.

DAY THREE

9AM: We walked past Downing Street and to Buckingham Palace before taking the Tube to Madame Tussauds. Our celebrity spotting went into overdrive here. All the boys had their phones out to capture themselves with their favourite footballers and popstars.

Eleven-year-old Roscoe stood on the steps of 10 Downing Street next to David Cameron and texted the picture to his friends – “Look who I’ve met in London.” The boys were pictured with world leaders, including Barack Obama, at his desk in the White House, while I photographed Roscoe sticking his tongue out at Hitler. We finished in the Tussauds 4D cinema, where the incredible special effects had us, literally, shaking in our seats.

4PM: We went walkabout among the Covent Garden street performers. Where else would you see a man swallowing a 4ft-long balloon or juggling knives while balancing on the top of a 10ft ladder and wearing only his underpants?

The highlight for the boys was when their dad was dragged out of the crowd to be ritually humiliated as part of the show.

7.30PM Sophie’s Steakhouse was our only evening meal out, in a lively but relaxed restaurant in the heart of Covent Garden. We enjoyed big salads and fresh fish, as well as great British steaks, dry-aged for 28 days. This was one menu which left even our 6ft and constantly hungry 17-year-old saying he was, unusually, full up. But he, like the rest of us, still couldn’t resist the mouth-watering homemade desserts. This was the sort of place where you wanted to linger. With a no-bookings policy, service was slick and efficient and, while there was an enjoyable atmospheric buzz about the bar, it was family friendly too.

DAY FOUR

10AM: A walk through Regent’s Park before spending most of the day at London Zoo. We could easily have spent a second day there. The boys loved watching the antics of the monkeys and were fascinated by the big cats which, they were delighted to learn, were fed ice cubes made of blood as treats. The emphasis was on conservation, with lots of keepers on hand to talk and answer questions, as well as various educational events.

We saw the penguins being fed, got up close to a bird-eating spider and watched flying, leaping and climbing animals in the amphitheatre.

But the highlight was coming faceto- face with the city’s latest celebrity, a gorgeous, four-day-old gorilla, the first born at London Zoo for 20 years.

6.30PM: On the train and home by 9.30pm.

By 10pm, Albert is off to bed. “When can we go back to London again, Mum?” he asks.

Top tips...

1 Stay in a hotel as near to the centre as you can. Walking everywhere is part of the fun. But take at least one big red double decker bus and Underground ride too. 2 Allow a few hours for a nice meal – it’s worth paying a bit more to eat at a great location as the people and celebrity spotting is all part of the London experience. 3 Persuade dad to stand in the front if you’re watching an entertainer in Covent Garden. You’ll enjoy his ritual humiliation when he’s picked to take part in the show.

TRAVEL FACTS

We travelled to London by train with East Coast. Family and Friends Railcard holders can book online at eastcoast.co.uk to save up to 40 per cent off lowest standard advance fares – and up to 70 per cent off children’s tickets. The Railcard costs £26 and is valid for a year. Train times and fares also on 08457- 225225 or from staffed rail stations. London Eye, Aquarium and River Cruise: londoneye.com, City Inn: cityinn.com (rooms from £59), Giraffe: giraffe.net, Carluccio’s: carluccios.com, Mamma Mia!: princeofwales theatrelondon.info, Madame Tussaud’s: madametussauds.com, Sophie’s Steakhouse: sophiessteakhouse.co.uk, London Zoo: zsl.org/zsl-london-zoo