Bert Walsh goes into cultural overload on a classical music cruise to the Baltic capitals

WE were warned to expect a frosty reception at St Petersburg passport control, nevertheless I was determined to win a smile from Olga the straight-faced immigration official.

I cordially wished her "Dobroye Utra".

Olga, without a hint of acknowledgement, scrutinised my passport then coldly looked me up and down. Unfazed, I burst into song with the Beatles' Back in the USSR. Did my fine rendition invoke the merest glimmer of a smile? Niet.

Welcome to Mother Russia.

Now Olga or anyone needing a crash course in charm should sail on the Saga Ruby. From genial Scottish captain Alistair Mclundie, down to aptly named Grace, the Filipino cocktail waitress, service reached new heights.

Formerly named Caronia, Ruby is a classic liner who gave sterling service to Cunard before her transfer to Saga and subsequent major refurbishment.

Unlike the new breed of glitzy gin palaces', like a benign dowager she oozes old world charm throughout her elegant public rooms.

Our Press group joined the Ruby at Copenhagen, unfortunately too late to sample Denmark's maritime capital.

However, with a veritable voyage of discovery lying ahead, disappointments were quickly forgotten as we reached our first port of call, Stockholm.

Enjoying one of Europe's most beautiful settings, Sweden's cosmopolitan capitol lies over 14 islands. After visiting the old town with its narrow medieval streets and distinctive red brick City Hall, we followed the picturesque waterfront to the Vasa exhibition.

In 1628, on her maiden voyage, the top heavy warship encountered a slight swell, causing her to capsize. Preserved in mud for 333 years, the Vasa was raised in 1961 and has been meticulously reconstructed.

This exhibition in size and scale is simply awesome and scores ten on the "wow" factor.

Our group were mistaken for musicians, easily done considering we sailed on a classical music cruise to the Baltic capitals. With the cruise embarking and returning to Tyneside, there was a strong Northern presence on board. The Wests from Penrith typified the Saga clientele, preferring smaller, more intimate ships, enjoying quality company and the other vital ingredient of any cruise, the cuisine.

With three restaurants, Ruby does not disappoint. For informal and alfresco dining, the Lido buffet makes a change from the grand dining room, but the swish View restaurant is the star performer.

Be warned, Saga guests take no prisoners where food is concerned.

Sweet little old ladies are ruthlessly competitive at the buffet, intent on finishing dinner early to nab the best seats for the concerts.

AND with the entertainment provided, who could blame them?

Opera aficionados were entranced by the decidedly dishy Rosa and Hannah, while the performance of the Sonas String Quartet playing Handel and Mozart were equally memorable. Concert pianist Anthony Peebles mesmerised as with expressive gusto he set about Rachmaninoff and Chopin.

The cruise featured colourful variety shows and even a 70s evening. For guests hot to trot there is nightly dancing, unaccompanied ladies glided around the floor by the gentlemen hosts.

Our next capital, Helsinki, gave us the opportunity to visit composer Sibelius's house and to experience a wonderful recital of his work.

For guests choosing to stay onboard, daytime pursuits are plentiful, although with cocktails a modest £1.50, it's difficult for some to leave the bar and pool.

The Ruby offers deck games, quizzes, lectures and a well stocked library, while the cinema screens the latest releases.

I tried to burn off the calories in the small gym, but failed miserably.

Having listened intently to the onboard lecture of St Petersburg, the Venice of the Baltic, surpassed all expectations.

Built around a network of canals and rivers, the city is full of striking architecture, wide boulevards and colossal squares. St Issacs and the Church of the Spilled Blood are both must-sees, but even they are overshadowed by the spectacular palace and fountains of Peterhof.

Walk along the embankment to view the cruiser Aurora which fired the first salvo to ignite a nation, signalling the bloody demise of the Romanov dynasty.

Ride on a Stali-boy tram and hear the heroics of a city besieged for 900 days.

Our grand finale was a concert at the Hermitage and private viewing of one of the world's finest art collections, amassed by Catherine the Great. Amidst the grandeur of the Italian Hall priceless Titians gazed down as the State Hermitage Orchestra led us on a musical odyssey. A champagne reception followed, the evening defying superlatives.

Next day the Ruby cruised onwards to Germany. Reluctantly, we disembarked at Tallin, a fairytale city of towers and turrets. En route to the airport the taxi radio blasted out Ruby, Ruby, Ruby - well she is a gem.

TRAVEL FACTS

Saga Ruby's 13-night Baltic Splendours Cruise calls at Copenhagen, Stockholm, Helsinki, St Petersburg, Tallin, Warnemunde (for Berlin) and Aarhus, departing and returning to Newcastle.

Prices include gratuities, meals and entertainment on board, plus travel to/from your departure point.

Tel: 0800-50-50-30 or visit www.saga.co.uk/travelshop