Peter Barron ends the year with a curious experience at a 'hidden gem' in Darlington

IT was decided that 2014 should end with a family gathering for lunch. But where? I was working in Darlington so it had to be somewhere handy and my wife had heard good things about Vesuvio, tucked away in Houndgate, behind the town's Dolphin Centre.

A check on TripAdvisor provided further encouragement, with most of the posts talking in terms of a "hidden gem", so we agreed to go and uncover it.

Downstairs, Vesuvio is a cosy little wine bar, which is clearly popular without being so over-run that it's uncomfortable.

There are more tables and chairs upstairs, higgledly-piggledy, in an assortment of styles. It has the feel of a homely French restaurant but, among the Parisian wine posters on the walls, photographs of Ricky Ponting being bowled out, and Alan Shearer in action, have been thrown in. For some reason, there is also a rather second-class painting of a traditional English red post-box.

Random, quirky and curious are words that sprung to mind. I couldn't quite make up my mind whether to add "charming" to that list.

We were greeted with a friendly French accent and politely warned that the Dover Sole special was expensive at £25. I guess we can't have looked like the big spending types.

We were the only ones upstairs for lunch and the atmosphere was pretty dead so we happily said "yes" when we were asked if we'd like some music played. In the absence of a man in a beret and stripey shirt playing an accordion, a Dido CD was perhaps an odd choice, but not unpleasant.

My wife and daughter fancied tapas but were informed – at some length – that there was a shortage due to the Christmas rush. Sainsbury's is over the road, and Darlington's Victorian covered market, a short walk away, so you wouldn't have thought it was too hard to top up on the tapas.

Nevertheless, they managed to muster just enough to go round, and the baked mushrooms, with gorgonzola and honey, was especially tasty, as were the marinated olives.

I chose the beef fillet (6oz) with tarragon sauce, which came with potatoes and green beans. At £16.50, it was one of the most expensive main courses on a fairly limited menu, but was beautifully cooked.

Indeed, everything that was served had clearly been prepared with expertise and it's easy to see why Vesuvio has a place in the market for somewhere different to eat out in Darlington. With drinks, the bill for six (without starters or desserts) came to £86.

Vesuvio won't go down as a personal favourite – it didn't quite charm me enough to want to rush back. That said, I certainly wouldn't put anyone off giving it a try.

FOOD FACTS

Vesuvio: 3A Houndgate, Darlington, County Durham DL1 5RL.

Phone: 01325-788564

No website

Food: 3/5

Ambience: 2/5

Value for money: 3/5

Service: 3/5