YOU'LL suddenly notice the scenery change as you drive away from the concrete and crowds of Newcastle to sheep and hills country. Beyond the shadow of Alnwick Castle and up past Bamburgh, the land will open out to huge rolling hills and sable-coloured fields.

By the time you reach Beadnell on the Northumberland coast, you'll feel as if you've hit luscious foreign climes. White sands and a relaxed pulse to daily life will put you in a holiday spirit, despite only being 20-odd miles away from the bustle of central Newcastle. With a coast that's clean of foot-and-mouth, hotel landlady Carole Field at Beach Court hasn't had enormous problems with getting bookings, but she did notice a sudden lull when it was first announced.

Further down in Wooler, the quaint old town is distinctly quiet despite the stunning sights surrounding it. Though some areas are still cordoned off for hikers, these are few and far between. Most of the beautiful areas such as Ford and Etal, a few miles down the road, have lots of pretty walking spots and even gamboling lambs, to boot.

For those who prefer something a little more sedentary than hiking, there are plenty of castles spotted around to keep them busy.

Being diehard townies, my travelling companion and I stuck largely to window viewing from the relaxing confines of our car and enjoyed the peaceful, pastoral landscapes.

Staying at Wooler's Tankerville Arms Hotel, owned by Anne Park, is an event in itself. With a chef whose food really is good enough to come back for - even if it means a two-hour drive from Darlington - it's the perfect mini-break for families and young couples alike.

With Hadrians Wall, Holy Island and The Cheviots as day-trips away from the comfortable 17th Century coaching inn, you'll forget foot-and-mouth ever happened to the countryside.

Who needs pricey flights out to the continent when you've got a pastoral idyll on your doorstep.

l The Tankerville Arms is situated just off the A697 in Wooler, Northumberland. For details call (01668) 281 581