AS our luxury cruise ship glided into the heart of Russia's second city, manoeuvered onto its mooring and lowered its gangway, the small brass band on the quayside struck up a patriotic tune. It may have swelled the chests of many of the passengers, but the band's choice of The Star Spangled Banner demonstrated it's not just the name that has changed in St Petersburg.

Where once it was despised, the mighty dollar now rules, and the old hatreds have been buried for the sake of hard cash.

While it's a fair bet that Leningrad never featured very highly on most people's list of places to visit - both for the obstacles thrown up by communist bureaucrats and the image of forbidding Stalinist buildings - the city's reversion to its original name has given it a new glamour.

Conjuring up a picture of fabulous palaces, spectacular churches and vast squares, St Petersburg recalls the city's heyday as the Russian capital founded by Peter the Great to rival anything the West could offer. And, although much of the city was destroyed in the Second World War, careful rebuilding has seen it restored to its original splendour, with all the romance its name suggests.

Closer inspection does reveal signs of the malaise now affecting the Russian economy. Peeling paint on the palace walls, street traders swooping on anyone resembling a tourist, and old women begging. But, while this may put it in thrall to the healing power of the dollar, its faded glory only adds to the overwhelming charm of a city which may have seen better days but still has the power to take your breath away.

We had joined the Seabourn Pride at Stockholm, half-way through a two-week cruise of the Baltic which had already taken in Norwegian capital Oslo and Odense in Denmark. A few hours in Sweden's capital was barely enough to appreciate its distinctive appeal of typically colourful Scandinavian architecture and vibrant but easy-going atmosphere.

Next stop was Estonia's capital, Tallinn. After being among the first to break away from the former Soviet Union, Estonia has eagerly embraced the West. Pastel-coloured buildings and cobbled squares, combined with a relaxed, small-town feel, make this a real revelation, and medieval churches and a castle provide plenty for a day's sightseeing.

Despite the intermittent rain, the pavement cafes were proving a popular draw, and, in keeping with Tallinn's gentle atmosphere, were ideal to while away some time over a coffee, before returning to the ship.

The Seabourn Pride itself is small by cruise ship standards, with a maximum of only 208 passengers. Unlike some ships, the cabins are generously sized, with only the barometer on the wall to distinguish it from a hotel room, and there is no doubt that it is at the luxury end of the market. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, steam room, gym, casino - all help to give its passengers that pampered feeling.

For a small ship, there is even some variety for evenings at sea, with two restaurants and three bars, including one on-deck. Waiters and bar staff are unfailingly smiling and courteous, even in the face of some of the more demanding guests.

All food and drinks and on-board entertainment, from videos to cabaret, are included in the price, which also covers the cost of flights. Still, there is no denying that it is not cheap, perhaps contributing to the exclusive feel. The majority of passengers on our cruise were American, although Seabourn is aiming to expand in the European market.

After leaving Tallinn, next stop was St Petersburg, undoubtedly the highlight of the trip, but two-and-a-half days was barely enough for even a taste of what the city has to offer.

Peter the Great's house, the first to be built when the Tsar created his new capital in the 18th Century, is surprisingly small for an emperor's home, but full of artefacts illustrating Peter's obsession with learning new trades, from dentistry to carpentry. The tour also included a shot of vodka, enough to warm anyone's throat, particularly at 9am.

From the mosaic-clad onion domes of the Church of the Spilled Blood, built on the site of Alexander II's assassination, to the forbidding brick of the Peter and Paul Fortress, used to house political prisoners, the city throws up one awe-inspiring sight after another.

Chief among these is the Winter Palace, which includes one of the world's foremost museums, the Hermitage. Apparently, it has so many exhibits that if a visitor spent a minute looking at each of them it would take longer to see them all than it would to queue up to get a ticket in the first place.

But St Petersburg's attraction lies not just in its appearance. The city is positively dripping with history, as befits the former capital of one of the world's most turbulent nations. From the room where Rasputin was shot and stabbed by jealous nobles, to the Cruiser Aurora, which fired the shot to signal the start of the October Revolution in 1917, St Petersburg echoes to the sound of events which have changed world history.

But midsummer sees the city drenched also in the aftermath of torrential downpours, which seem to strike with Soviet-style regularity every afternoon, overpowering the drains to create ankle-deep rivers in the street, before giving way to sweltering sunshine as quickly as they had arrived.

From St Petersburg, the Seabourn Pride took us to Finland's capital, Helsinki, a sophisticated and elegant city, whose appearance, a mixture of Russian-influenced and modernist buildings, reflects its history as a former province of its giant neighbour before its breakaway in 1917. Finland is also proud of its greatest gift to the world, the sauna, and Helsinki may have the largest, or indeed the only, concentration of sauna shops in the world, with an impressive array of brushes, sponges and buckets.

Perhaps unsurprisingly in a country renowned for its long, dark, winters, summer brings people out in droves to the multitude of pavement cafes. The city is a haven for serious shoppers, and, in Stockmanns has, apparently, the largest department store in northern Europe.

Final stop before our return home was Copenhagen, and a whirlwind tour of a handful of its attractions, including the Little Mermaid, who really does deserve her moniker, and the quietly grand royal palace. The Danish capital is another city with some seriously smart-looking shops.

For a taster of the Baltic states, it would be hard to beat a cruise, particularly when it is in such luxury. When the ship is at sea, there is nothing for it but to be spoiled, and, although life on board may feel a little cloistered after a while, this is more than outweighed by the varied blend of culture and guilt-free relaxation.

Factfile

Prices for the two-week Regal Scandinavia and Russia cruise range from £5,705 to £16,640, including connecting flights and all drinks and meals on-board ship.

Bookings for Seabourn Cruise Line can be made on 0800 052 3841, more information is available on www.seabourn.com or for a brochure call 0845 601 1720.

Nick Morrison travelled to London Kings Cross for Gatwick Airport with GNER.