The fashion world is getting excited about Marks & Spencer's new womenswear collection. Women's Editor Christen Pears enjoys a sneak preview

SOMEWHERE along the line, we fell out of love with Marks and Spencer. Its classic, affordable clothes were once a wardrobe staple for millions of women but then complacency crept in. M&S became old-fashioned and frumpy. Bosses were accused of being out of touch with their customers and profits began to fall.

But now, it seems, the romance between the great British public and its once-favourite store is being rekindled.

Last week, M&S revealed its autumn/winter collection to the press - and it was a far cry from the days of elasticated waist trousers and Crimplene blouses. Luxurious sheepskin and suede coats shared the rails with chunky knits and the softest cashmere cardigans. There were sharply tailored suits, ruffled taffeta skirts in rich, jewel colours, faux fur wraps and feather boas.

The basic pieces are still there, catering for the traditional M&S customer, but this collection is far more adventurous than anything the company has tried in the past and it seems to be looking towards a new, younger customer. Per Una, which was introduced last year, and the more directional mainstream collections currently on the shelves have done much to revive M&S' flagging fortunes but this takes it to another level.

The driving force behind the turnaround is womenswear director,Yasmin Yusuf, a high-flier who was recruited just over a year ago from Warehouse.

She says: "This season we have continued to build on our strengths and have taken the collection even further along the path to define an exciting, inspirational range with consistent handwriting."

She hopes the clothes, which will be available in stores from late summer, will capture the fashion mood and allow each customer to interpret it in her own way. But, as always, quality and attention to detail are paramount.

The main collection is divided into a number of themed sections, each with a range of mix-and-match pieces and accessories.

Sheepskin and faux sheepskin coats feature heavily in Winter Warmth, They come in cream, beige, chocolate and black, and in every cut and length. The fakes are so soft, so realistic, it's difficult to tell the difference.

Chunky rib knits, fine Fairisles and tiered corduroy skirts create an apres-ski feel while lurex-edged sweaters create a touch of sparkle.

The Country look is inspired by the hit film Gosford Park, set during the glamorous 1930s. Quintessentially English, it combines rich tweed coats and jackets with pretty pink twin sets, Liberty print shirts and faded floral tea dresses.

The Modernist collection offers sharp tailoring in a palette of black, red and cream. The silhouette is sleek, evoking the 60s heyday of Jackie O.

Russian is all about texture and colour, with sumptuous velvets and silks. Tiered taffeta skirts are worn with crushed velvet Mandarin collar jackets in jewel colours, fitted shirts and camisole tops.

Return to the late 60s and early 70s with what the company is calling Hippie Deluxe - San Francisco meets Morocco with faded denim, soft suedes and paisley silks.

Evening offers a huge selection of little black dresses, from 1930s bias cut dance dresses with beaded straps to panelled dresses made from matt and shiny fabrics.

Even those who abandoned M&S clothing, still visited the store to buy their undies and now there's even more reason. For designer looks at a fraction of the cost, there is Wild Hearts by Collette Dinnigan and Salon Rose by Agent Provocateur. Romantic, vintage styles in chocolate and pink sit alongside bolder pieces in rich shades of aubergine, berry red and purple.

Accessories, which M&S has never done particularly well are also spot on. From sheepskin bags and top-stitched suede boots to fringed gypsy shawls and feather boas, you can update your look in an instant.

The company has also transformed its Autograph range, re-focusing on its bestselling designers: Betty Jackson, Sonja Nuttall and Anthony Symonds. Milliner Philip Treacey and bag designer Orla Kiely complete the line-up.

From classic pinstripes to more unusual white corduroy and denim suits, they offer a range of tailoring, as well as more casual, knitwear stylish eveningwear and tulle separates. The price, which, in the past was prohibitive, has come down too.

After a few years in the fashion wilderness, it seems Marks & Spencer is ready to step back into the limelight.