Trouble At The Top (BBC2); Sleeping With Celebrities (ITV1)

JAMIE'S Kitchen raised the bar for fly-on-the-restaurant-wall (call the health inspectors immediately) documentaries about opening eating establishments.

Trouble At The Top followed chef Gordon Ramsay's quest to give London's terribly posh Connaught Hotel a makeover in the eating department, and suffered by cramming six weeks drama into just 40 minutes. The result was hurried and undercooked, a sort of fast food version of Jamie's terrific series.

Part of the problem was that Ramsay was subdued. His normally expletive-filled conversation was free of four letter words, and he didn't lose his temper. He was sympathetic to the problems of protg chef Angela Hartnett, whom he'd put in charge of the kitchen in the £1m refurbishment.

She had plenty to do in the run-up to the re-opening, including preparing ten new starters and ten new main courses, and having them tasted and approved by Ramsay and his two top chefs. She also had to bear in mind the resentment of some staff and customers at changes being forced on their working and eating habits.

A month after opening, the restaurant was full, and Ramsay was smiling at the mostly good reviews from newspaper critics. The famous folk featured in Sleeping With Celebrities were reading things they didn't want to as their sex lives were made public.

Angus Deayton won't have thanked the makers of this tabloid-style tittle-tattle for reviving the story of his downfall from Have I Got News For You, which involved a hooker and cocaine (allegedly) in a hotel room.

You couldn't help but doubt the motives of escort girl Caroline Martin, whose kiss and tell revelations were responsible for his woes.

Martin repeated the whole story for the cameras - how she met him in a club, how he was polite and charming and ordered champagne, and how he wrote his telephone number on a napkin in lipstick. She omitted to mention her profession to him. He omitted to say he was in a relationship.

By saying he was "the best lover I have ever had and should open a workshop and teach other men", she seemed to think that would make her snitching to the Sunday papers okay.

But, as journalist and broadcaster Jane Moore pointed out, you have to wonder at the motives of a woman who climbs out of bed with Deayton and then goes to see PR consultant Max Clifford, a man well-known for arranging newspaper exposes of celebrities. "That says everything about that woman," said Moore.

As Martin later revealed details of bedroom antics with several footballers, she could perhaps be classed as a serial kiss-and-teller.

Of course, celebrities never learn. You'd think they'd be more careful in the light of the experience of others who've learnt the hard way about women - and men too - that recognise the potential investment of bedding a celebrity.