WHITBY on Saturday was hot and crowded and full of people stuffing their faces while walking along, generally looking pretty miserable.

But down in Grape Lane, the Captain Cook Memorial Museum was an oasis, especially the small courtyard garden overlooking the harbour. Blissfully peaceful. Even the amplified electronic music from outside the Endeavour was, thankfully, barely audible across the water.

No glitz or gimmicks in the museum but a lovely atmosphere. Maps of the voyages, models of ships and letters written by Captain Cook and others. Fascinating.

A museum for older children and grown-ups - and all the better for it.