LAST summer I was amazed to see open-sided tukuls in the middle of Wensleydale. Tukuls were the thatched huts we often stayed in when working in Southern Sudan.

Many of us living in and around Aysgarth did not feel that the thatched canopies constructed outside the George and Dragon Inn were in keeping with the Yorkshire Dales landscape.

But in early September I found myself sitting under one of them enjoying a delicious meat pie. I was that impressed by the food that I told my friends in the Wensleydale Wining and Dining group.

A few weeks ago ten of us descended upon the George and Dragon one Saturday evening to test their cuisine further. I don't usually dine out with them but there are some in the group with considerable experience of local hostelries.

If I do eat out I want something a bit special that I wouldn't be able to cook myself. One look at their exciting menu that evening immediately reassured me especially as there was a considerable choice for someone, like myself, who had a dairy allergy.

We had been warned that as we were a large group that we should come reasonably early so that they could serve us quickly and efficiently. And that they did - even though they didn't know we were about to report on their activities.

The service was excellent without being intrusive and everything was well presented. We sat in the restaurant next to the bar and enjoyed its pleasant, relaxed atmosphere with the gentle background music.

Only four of us had starters and two of those were the mussels in white wine and garlic. The mussels were plump and juicy but my friends would have preferred crusty French bread to the soft bread served. They would also have liked a finger bowl.

The beef oriental pancake was described as being the right size and well-filled with tasty beef. And the scallops were excellent too.

Most of us had chosen our main course from the "day's specials board". As this course was delivered we all wondered where the vegetables were. Nor did there seem to be that much food on the plates. I then understood why so many locals felt that they got less for the same price at the George and Dragon these days.

But if we were lacking additional bowls of chips and half-cooked vegetables we certainly were not sold short. For under the meat or fish lay beds of delicious vegetables which perfectly matched each individual dish.

There was a wonderful combination of flavours and textures on each plate, from the asparagus with warm goats cheese in filo pastry, to the poached chicken stuffed with spinach, shallots and mushrooms, or the salmon with Mediterranean vegetables tossed in garlic.

We would have had to have travelled miles to find a better lamb shank I was told. And the luxury fish pie won an accolade for the good selection of fish, including salmon and scallops, capped with a crust of cheese.

I had the confit of duck thoroughly enjoying the delicate, succulent flesh after biting through the crispy skin. This was well complimented by sage and onion mash, braised red cabbage and lentils. Like the other diners I was nicely replete afterwards.

One of the new owners, John Wormwell, "We aim for good quality pub food and people can ask for extra vegetables. We use as much local produce as possible."

He added that all the chefs (Gavin Smith, Craig Bennett and Gary Lowe) were trained to two rosettes Michelin standard so that they could provide meals with a difference.

My friends who had had starters found it difficult to finish their main course and only two of us could tackle a dessert.

The creme brulee was beautifully presented with shortbread and forest fruits. And, like the raspberry and mascapone cheese cake, was described as deliciously good.

The coffee was good too and was made particularly memorable by the plate of tasty home-made petit fours.

So for me a great evening out cost £14.80, for I do enjoy a liqueur after a good meal.

And as for those canopies - Mrs Wormwell pointed out that these had led to a considerable increase in trade for they had caught the attention of so many tourists.