Peter Barron visits a quirky country pub which has become a firm favourite since being taken over by a former racehorse trainer

THE last time I’d encountered Martyn Wane, we were praying for a miracle. Martyn was trying to make ends meet in the tough world of racehorse training and he had a horse which appealed to my sense of romance.

A couple of years earlier, I’d come across a lovely story about a thoroughbred foal being born prematurely during a storm in a field at Middleton St George, near Darlington. The foal had been initially mistaken for a deer by a man walking his dog and wasn’t expected to survive.

But against the odds, survive it did and Little Miracle ended up being put into training with Martyn on a country estate near Aldborough St John. Having followed the story, The Northern Echo’s racing syndicate was offered the chance to own Little Miracle, and a visit to the gallops was arranged.

In the end, we decided against doing a deal, which was just as well because there was to no fairytale ending to the Little Miracle story.

Four runs, four losses, pretty damned useless, was the verdict.

We bought a horse instead with Michael Dods, at Denton. It was duly named Northern Echo and, to be fair, turned out to be a slowcoach too. Martyn handed in his trainer’s licence in 2000 and for the past eight years has been a business partner at The Brownlow Arms, which is run by food-wise licenseeBarbara Boanson, in the village of Caldwell, off the A66 in North Yorkshire.

The Brownlow Arms is one of those places that frequently crops up when you ask for recommendations for places to eat. There is no doubt that, in those eight years, Martyn and Barbara, have forged an enviable reputation.

Inside the front door, a picture of three racing legends – Desert Orchid, Red Rum and Arkle – signal a passion for horses and it’s a regular watering hole for the racing, hunting and farming fraternity.

The Brownlow Arms has managed to create the best of both worlds. A homely country pub where you can arrive in your wellies and enjoy a drink or a bar meal, combined with a fine dining experience in the restaurant. It’s a place overflowing with an eclectic mix of ornaments, including a recently-arrived giraffe.

“It’s just stuff we’ve collected and it’s become quite quirky,” said Barbara, who acts as chef with the help of daughter Rachael. Barbara is particularly pleased with the giraffe – as yet unnamed – which came from a shop in the Lake District.

“The shop was shut for refurbishment, but we told the workman that we had to have the giraffe in the window,” she explained. “He managed to get it for us.”

“We’ve just tried to make it an interesting place to come to with a nice atmosphere and good food,” added Martyn. “Even in the recession, with the right food, at the right price, and the right atmosphere, people will come out.

There isn’t even a bus comes past here so we have to make sure the word gets out there.”

MY wife and I booked a table in the restaurant last Saturday night. We were the first to be seated at 7pm, but by 8.15pm, the place was heaving – always a good sign. The first thing that strikes you about the menu is the huge choice. Just like the quirky ornaments, the dishes have been collected over the years.

We counted 35 main courses, 19 starters and 13 desserts. A request for a bottle of Chilean Sauvignon surprisingly created a little consternation.

“Do you know the number?” asked the young waiter. “Sorry, no,” my wife replied, having looked at the wine list while in the bar. A waitress was sent back to check the order, explaining that the original waiter was a bit confused, but the wine was nicely chilled when it arrived. I started with delicious mushrooms in garlic, with port and stilton cream, while my wife opted for salmon fishcakes in red pesto mayonnaise.

The fishcakes actually arrived with a chilli sauce and, disappointingly, there was no sign of the red pesto mayonnaise. My main course of lemon and lime chicken on creamed spinach with vine tomatoes and parmesan cheese was well-cooked with a nice flavour. It came with a generous supply of proper, crispy homemade chips, all of which meant I couldn’t manage a dessert.

MY wife declared her tiger prawn and monkfish curry “very tasty” and she left enough room to squeeze in half a raspberry creme brulee – not the best she’s ever tasted, but then she’s very fussy when it comes to creme brulees.

Our bill came to £93 – not cheap but good quality food. At the other end of the scale, “early evening specials” – between 5.30pm and 7.30pm – are proving a big hit. A couple of meals, plus drinks, can be contained at around £20.

From the calm of a pleasant evening in the restaurant, we walked back through a bar alive with laughter and chatter, with horses no doubt a chief talking point. Two years back, Martyn and his racehorse-owning customers managed 14 winners between then and the landlord is hopeful that his Fourth Generation, in training with Alan Swinbank at Melsonby, can build on a maiden victory last season.

Whatever Fourth Generation goes on to achieve, The Brownlow Arms has clearly found the winning formula.

Food Facts

The Brownlow Arms, Caldwell, Richmond, North Yorkshire DL11 7QH
Opening times: Monday-Friday 5.30pm- 11pm; Saturday & Sunday Noon-11pm.
Telephone: 01325-718471
Email: bookings@brownlowarms.co.uk
Food 4/5
Service 3/5
Ambience 4/5
Value for money 4/5