IT says much about Bistro 21 that when we told friends of our plans for a cold, wet Wednesday, mid-February evening there, a quiet, unspoken envy clouded their eyes.

Bistro 21 is without question one of Durham’s most acclaimed, sought-after and indeed talked about destinations. This was our first visit.

The Northern Echo:

Bistro 21 owner Terry Laybourne with his new head chef, Robbie Bell

We were aware of the spin, but had never ventured in.

But when we came out, we were impressed.

Bistro 21 is part of the group owned by chef, restaurateur and food entrepreneur Terry Laybourne.

It also includes Newcastle’s Cafe 21, Caffe Vivo, Cafe 21 at Fenwick and The Broad Chare.

It is situated in Aykley Heads – indeed it occupies Aykley Heads House – near Durham’s Register Office and police headquarters.

There is a luxuriously rustic feel, like a tastefully re-appointed country farmhouse. Guests enter by descending a few tumbledown garden steps and through a spacious hall, passing an attractive terraced dining area to the left and a snug, amply stocked bar to the right.

We were greeted warmly and, having opted to skip pre-dinner drinks and head straight for our table, we were shown through to the squareish dining room. Again, the surroundings were deliberately raw, with wooden chairs attached high up on the walls.

Our table, as it always seems to be regardless of where my wife and I venture, was hidden away in the corner – on this occasion underneath a staircase, giving us a semi-private atmosphere.

It was early, but there were plenty of diners already in – and the place filled up further as the night went on. We had booked for 7pm, but were graciously offered the Early Evening Special – two courses for £15.50 or three for £19, available Monday to Saturday, 5.30pm to 7pm.

For those looking for a (slightly) cheaper option, it would certainly do the job – the range is good and one is undoubtedly assured of the quality.

We went for the evening menu, and Sarah began with the gruyere cheese and leek souffle (£7.50, but also on the Early Evening Special menu), which arrived piping hot and looked and tasted wonderful. It may even have been the highlight of her meal. She would highly recommend it, as would I, having warmly-accepted the offer of a cheeky mouthful.

I was also delighted at my choice – fragrant Asian mussel and prawn broth (£7.50). I am growing to love seafood more and more and, despite having been traumatised by the experience of eating raw mussels as a delicacy in New Zealand some five years ago, this dish clinched the clam’s long-awaited return to my most-wanted list. An excellent starter.

For mains, Sarah chose haddock with leeks, potatoes, soft poached egg and light curry cream (£16.50).

Sadly, this was the one disappointment of her meal – the haddock being too strongly smoked. But we both felt this may have been a matter of individual taste, rather than a criticism of the dish’s quality.

I surprised myself by plumping for fishcakes, served with buttered spinach, parsley cream and thin chips (£16.50).

I say surprised because I probably hadn’t eaten fishcakes since my school days. But, thankfully, these were a far cry from the soggy, lifeless offerings of years ago – these were moist, crisp and fresh. Top of the class.

After a while to enjoy our surroundings, chew over the day’s events and more fully appreciate the Tempranillo (£6.90 for a 250ml glass), our thoughts turned to the dessert menu (£5.50 each).

Sarah was in chocolate heaven with her warm chocolate and peanut butter pudding, which was a most delicious torte-like creation, while I returned to safe ground by opting for the sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce. It was just as it should be, neither stodgy nor fluffy, and properly warm.

Declining coffees and thoroughly satisfied, we headed for home. Bistro 21 had fulfilled our expectations in terms of quality, but our fears of overly pretentious cooking, odd flavours and tiny portions were illfounded.

Chef Rauri McKay offers good, solid food with intriguing innovation.

The service was friendly and attentive, although surprisingly informal – we can only assume deliberately so.

With all main courses priced £16.50, Bistro 21 is not a cheap night out. But, for a special occasion or a treat, it is a good one.

Food Facts

Bistro 21
Aykley Heads House, Aykley Heads, Durham,
DH1 5TS
Tel: 0191-384-4354, bistrotwentyone.co.uk
Food: 4/5 
Ambience: 4/5 
Value for Money: 4/5 
Service: 4/5