On a snowy February night, Joe Willis finds a warm welcome waiting in Ainderby Steeple

WORD of mouth is so important when finding somewhere decent to eat. And when a recommendation comes from someone 'in the industry' it would possibly be churlish to ignore it.

I bumped into Vicky Stevens, whose family own the always-decent Wyvill Arms, at Constable Burton, beside a muddy rugby pitch recently after we had both sacrificed out Sunday mornings to watch the Wensleydale junior teams take on Penrith.

I spent several years working for the Stevens as pot washer, barman, waiter and commi chef in my teens and early 20s. They have previously run several pubs in the area, including the King's Arms, in Redmire, which never recovered from their departure and is now a house.

With neither of us knowing a whole lot about rugby, the conversation quickly turned to food and where was good to eat out.

Despite living up the Dales and travelling to Northallerton on numerous occasions, we had never visited one of Vicky's recommendations – the Wellington Heifer, which has a roadside position in Ainderby Steeple, a pretty village two miles out of Northallerton towards Bedale.

We planned to rectify that on Saturday night, but the kids were playing up so rescheduled for Monday. The weather was horrible that evening, but it takes more than driving rain and the occasional snow shower to keep us from a warm pub and a good meal.

Despite the weather and it being a Monday, there was still a few people in the Heifer. We were pleased to find two roaring fires, one of which we cosied up to as we made our choices. There were plenty of other nice touches, including eclectic antique furniture throughout, fresh flowers on the bar and excellent background music – Smashing Pumpkins, Otis Redding and David Gray to name three artists.

For a starter, Sarah went for a salmon and ginger fishcake with sweet chilli sauce (£6.75). "Delicious" was her verdict, especially the hefty chilli kick from the sauce. My flat field mushrooms stuffed with onions, chorizo and blue cheese with a cranberry relish (£6.95) was just the thing for a cold winter's night – tasty, rich and fruity – with the chorizo the star on the plate for me.

For her main, Sarah opted for pan fried chicken breast with a colcannon potato cake, glazed apples, spiced red cabbage and a sweet fig and red wine jus (£11.25). We didn't have a clue what a 'colcannon potato cake' was at the time, but Google now tells us it's of Irish origin and usually a combination of mashed potato and cabbage or kale. It, along with the dish's other components, was excellent. The glazed apples and red cabbage went down particularly well.

I chose oven roast duck breast served on a pea and onion risotto with pak choi and redcurrant jus (£16.95). It was also superb. The duck was pink in the middle and the skin was just about crispy enough. The risotto was packed with flavour, as was the fruity sauce. Although others may think it crude to mention, we were pleased with the hearty-sized portions of both mains. Good food is all very well, but there needs to be enough of it when you're braving the elements on a cold winter's night.

To finish, I had a boozy chocolate pot in a brandy snap basket and Sarah went for her all-time favourite – bread and butter pudding which was served with vanilla ice cream (both £4.95).

We were served throughout the meal by manager James Williamson, who was friendly and attentive. In the kitchen was second chef Mark Day, who has worked at a number of restaurants in the area including the Golden Lion in Northallerton, and clearly knows a thing or two about cooking.

The bill came to just over £66, including an excellent pint of Black Sheep and three white wines. However, the Heifer has been running a 20 per cent discount on food during January and February, meaning we got more than £10 off the bill.

Even without the discount, we thought it was a fair amount for an excellent meal in pleasant surroundings. Next time we pass through Ainderby Steeple on our way to Northallerton it may not be as easy to drive on by.

Food facts

The Wellington Heifer,

Church View, Ainderby Steeple, Northallerton,

North Yorkshire, DL7 9PU.

Customer Information: 01609-775718.

Food: 4/5

Ambience: 4/5

Value for money: 4/5

Service: 5/5