For rustic country fare with a sophisticated twist, Cartmel in the Lake District ticks all the boxes. Lizzie Anderson is in food heaven

IT is a glorious sunny day when my friend Victoria and I arrive at Cartmel in Cumbria. Largely unspoilt, the village boasts stunning views of the Lakeland Fells and is popular with walkers and cyclists, keen to take advantage of all the Lake District has to offer. History enthusiasts, meanwhile, are attracted to its famous medieval priory.

Victoria and I, however, have other priorities. For, alongside its beautiful surroundings and historic charm, Cartmel has become a magnet for food lovers the world over. From traditional pubs and quaint tearooms to sophisticated bistros, micro breweries and the famous Cartmel Sticky Toffee Pudding, the chances of going hungry are slim to none. There is even a Michelinstarred restaurant, L’Enclume, owned by Simon Rogan, one of the UK’s most innovative chefs.

The Northern Echo:
The Old Barn Farm bed and breakfast and holiday cottages in Newby Bridge

Having done our research beforehand, our stomachs are rumbling in anticipation of the culinary delights to come. First up is lunch at the Pig and Whistle pub, another of Simon Rogan’s eateries.

The celebrated chef has restaurants in Manchester and London but it is Cartmel where the roots of his food empire can be found. As well as L’Enclume and the Pig and Whistle, he also runs Rogan & Company, which bridges the gap between the pub’s hearty grub and the elegant cuisine on offer at L’Enclume.

Dating back to the mid-19th Century, the Pig and Whistle has a cosy feel, with exposed beams, paintings and shabby chic furniture. The menu features light bites and more substantial dishes, with ingredients sourced from local suppliers, the Rogan family farm and the pub’s vegetable garden.

We feast on potted duck, served with toasted brioche and sweetcorn relish, creamy mussel chowder, rare-breed pork cutlet and beer-battered cod.

The Northern Echo:
The Fellfoot suite at Old Barn Farm B&B

The dessert menu is also tempting, with a host of home-made treats on offer. After lunch, we spend a delightful hour in the beer garden, which looks out across sheep-filled fields.

The next stop on our foodie adventure is Unsworth Yard, where brothers David and Peter Un- sworth have created a little piece of Italy in the heart of Cartmel. The yard has been in the family since 1922, when the brothers’ grandfather opened a workshop to repair wagons and buses.

In the 1990s, David and Peter transformed the site into an artisan food and drink hub. Cartmel Cheeses, Cartmel Bakehouse, Hotwines, Mallard Tea Shop and the Unsworth Yard Brewery are just some of the treasures to be discovered. The brothers have a relaxed approach to dining and – inspired by their love of Italy – have created a peaceful courtyard, complete with Tuscan fig tree, for visitors to picnic on their purchases.

The Northern Echo:
At Rogan & Company, head chef, Kevin Tickle, prides himself on creating stylish and inventive dishes that taste as good as they look

Sleepy from too much food and sunshine, Victoria and I head to the Old Barn Farm bed and breakfast and holiday cottages to relax for a few hours before dinner. Located a few miles from the village, our home for the night is owned by Kathryn and Peter Harforth, a lovely couple,who make us feel instantly at home. Our room, Fellfoot, is luxurious, with an en suite bathroom and beautiful garden view.

We return to Cartmel for dinner at Rogan & Company, where head chef Kevin Tickle prides himself on creating stylish and inventive dishes.

For starter, I plump for fresh buffalo curd, courgette, lovage and pumpernickel, while Victoria chooses crispy pigs trotter with heritage potatoes, broad beans and mugwort cream. Our main courses are equally exciting; grilled cod with heritage radishes, turnip and coastal greens, and Goosnargh guinea hen, served with peas, marjoram, bacon and celeriac.

My sweet tooth is satisfied by a dessert of iced yoghurt, honeycomb, granola and bee pollen, while Victoria tucks into an impressive cheese board. Our dining experience is improved further by delicate aperitifs, champagne and a bottle of chardonnay.

The Northern Echo:
Another beautifully crafted dish at Rogan & Company

It is far cry from the tuna, pasta and mayonnaise we rustled up together at university.

As we return to the bed and breakfast, we joke we will never be hungry again but it is remarkable what a good night’s sleep can do. The next morning we devour thick and crispy bacon, scrambled eggs, sausages, granary toast, tea and fresh orange juice. Peter’s breakfast pot, comprising Greek yoghurt, granola, stewed damsons and lemon zest, is also not to be missed.

When we can eat no more, we head to Cartmel Racecourse to hire bikes. We cycle to Holker Hall, a magnificent 16th Century stately home with spectacular gardens, food hall, gift shop and restaurant. Miraculously, we have worked up an appetite during our bike ride so partake in afternoon tea.

We are presented with a huge pot of tea and two cake stands laden with mouth-watering goodies. All conversation stops as we work our way through delicate sandwiches, scones smothered in jam and cream, mini Victoria sponge cakes, chocolate and berry gateaux and a gooey yoghurtcoated tray bake.

The Northern Echo:
 Peter’s breakfast pot at Rogan & Company

Needless to say, the ride back was considerably slower. Our Cartmel trip ends with a look around the monthly food market, before heading to Cartmel Village Shop to stock up on sticky toffee pudding. With a fan base that includes Nigella Lawson and Madonna, it would be rude not to.