On a birthday break in Wensleydale, Peter Barron comes across a gem of a place that’s a little bit different
WHEN it comes to eating out in Wensleydale, it’s a case of being spoilt for choice. There are almost as many restaurants as there are racehorses.
The Blue Lion, in East Witton, and The Wensleydale Heifer, of West Witton, come up time and time again as thoroughbred recommendations.
But, during a birthday break in a log cabin at racehorse trainer Ann Duffield’s Sun Hill Farm, we were pointed in the direction of a bit of a dark horse – The Friar’s Head.
In all my years of visiting Wensleydale, The Friar’s Head, at Akebar Park, a few miles down the road from Constable Burton, had somehow escaped my radar. The old friar had obviously been keeping his head down.
In 1969, Akebar Park began as a small caravan site, but it has been imaginatively developed by Colin and Joyce Ellwood into a quirky folly of a pub and restaurant, complete with a castle turret, golf course, driving range and croquet pitch.
My wife, Heather,and I enjoyed a drink in the cosiest of bars – a gorgeous pint of Timothy Taylor’s for me and a well-chilled glass of Sauvignon for Heather. We loved the earthiness of the church pews, cushions, crooks and crannies, and open fire, and felt relaxed immediately.
Next door to the bar area is a library room with charming nymph-laden friezes, painted by Darlington artist Katie Bird. It all adds to the sense that The Friar’s Head is a bit different.
The place is managed by Gabor Banyai, who came over from Hungary nine years ago.
His enthusiasm was infectious as he showed us round.
“It’s full of things that make it utterly unique,” he says, as he shows us round.
We ate in the atmospheric conservatory, with vines and Chinese lanterns hanging from the ceiling. It’s lovely and so was the food. After warm bread rolls, my wife started with smoked mackerel and apple pate, with mixed leaves and horseradish creme fraiche.
That was followed by linguine pasta, with smoked salmon and prawns in a cream sauce, topped with fresh parmesan and chilli flakes.
It came with a mixed side salad. The overall verdict: “Nicely cooked, beautifully presented and very tasty.”
My wife also liked the fact that she had a choice of a half portion for her main dish at half the price.
I opted for the creamy garlic mushrooms topped with gruyere cheese and bacon. For my main, it was strips of beef in a Dijon mustard sauce, with mushrooms, and crisp vegetables including broccoli, baby sweetcorn, carrots, and green beans. I’d happily have it all again.
We shared a dessert and it was a hard choice from an enticing list. In the end, we plumped for vanilla pannacotta with poached rhubarb and raspberry compote. Believe me, it tasted as good as it sounds.
Service was efficient and friendly, with just the right gap in between courses. Our bill came to £54.60, which we felt was good value.
Entertainment was provided by a couple on the nearby table. The middle-aged man was clearly trying to keep his voice down as he struggled to express his feelings – until she lost patience and shouted: “Just say you love me!”
It capped a thoroughly enjoyable evening.
To be fair, we were told more than once during our weekend break in Wensleydale that The Friar’s Head has had its ups and downs over the years.
All I can say, judged on our experience, is that it must be going through an up. We’ll certainly head back the friar’s way.
Ratings:
Food Quality: 4/5
Surroundings: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Value: 4/5
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