Peter Barron drives into Teesdale to find out how a County Durham favourite is faring in new hands

BY the time Chris and Alison Davy decided to sell The Rose & Crown in the beautiful Teesdale village of Romaldkirk, they had spent 23 years building a widespread reputation for good food.

The ivy-clad 18th Century coaching inn was one of those places that the grapevine swiftly recommends as one of the better eating out destinations in the North-East.

So when The Rose & Crown was taken over last November by Thomas and Cheryl Robinson, it was not just “a new adventure” for the family known for turning Headlam Hall, 15 miles away, into such a success, but a gamble too. It is one thing to transform a failing establishment, and another to maintain the reputation of a highly successful one. So, how is the gamble going? Well, it’s clear that The Rose & Crown is as popular as ever. The dining room was fully booked when we first tried to arrange a visit but, encouraged by repeated recommendations, we managed to reserve a table for 7pm last Saturday evening.

The first thing to say is that it’s an uplifting drive to Romaldkirk. Turn right at Barnard Castle, following the sign for Middleton-in- Teesdale, and the countryside quickly becomes spectacular.

On another warm evening in this pleasant surprise of a summer, the tables outside The Rose & Crown were fully occupied, as was the small, traditional bar. We opted to sit in the comfortable, beamed residents’ lounge for drinks and canapes.

Over a welcome pint of golden Wainwrights, I was intrigued to read at the front of the menu: “Some game dishes may contain shot.”

Having made our menu selections, we were shown into a wood-panelled, airy dining room, with enough room for 26 covers, and a gentle atmosphere. It was full by 8pm.

A parsnip and honey amuse bouche was a lovely, delicate way to begin the meal. My wife then opted for delicately grilled asparagus with soft poached egg and parmesan crisp, while I selected the cheddar cheese spinach souffle with chive cream sauce.

By now, it was already clear that we were in for a treat. For her main course, my wife plumped for the pan fried sea bream, with lemon caper butter, wilted spinach and tomato concas.

“This is absolutely gorgeous,” she declared, the soft, beautifully-cooked fish working perfectly with the zing of the capers.

I’m not a vegetarian but I like to test the options so I chose the mushroom and tarragon pithivier, with apple and fig chutney and Waldorf salad. This was certainly something different from the standard vegetarian fare of risotto or pasta. I loved it.

FOR dessert, my wife selected the apple and rhubarb crumble and vanilla ice cream. Clearly spoilt for choice, she eagerly suggested that I should order the coffee semi freddo with homemade donut.

The crumble was spot on – as fruity as the delightful collection of saucy seaside postcards arranged on the walls of the gents loo.

She also took no persuading to dip into my delicious coffee semi freddo, though she expressed herself a little disappointed by the donut.

“A bit too doughy,” she decreed – a strange criticism for a donut if you ask me, but a minor fault nonetheless. The only other slight irritation was that my wife felt her glass of Sauvignon Blanc could have been more chilled.

We retired back to the lounge for coffee and mints and agreed that The Rose & Crown had been one of the highlights of our eating out experiences so far.

The service had been excellent and the food tasty, fresh and locally sourced. All the meat comes from Joe Simpson’s butchers at Cockfield, the fish is delivered daily from Hartlepool Quay, and others suppliers include Teesdale Game, Joan Cross’ Cotherstone cheese, and Archer’s Jersey ice cream.

At first glance, the four-course dinner looks overwhelming. “There’s no way I’ll manage,”

said my wife. But the portions are perfectlysized so she actually managed very well. The set dinner in the restaurant was £35 per person and, with drinks, our bill came to £81.40, which we felt was decent value.

Sensibly, there have been no radical changes since the Robinsons took over, though there have been a few “tweaks”. New head chef Henrietta Crosland has modernised the menu and presentation, and Sarah Gregory, who grew up in Cotherstone, has been brought in from Headlam Hall as manager.

A cottage at the back has been used to increase the number of rooms from 12 to 14 and, in January, an archway will be introduced between the bar and the brasserie. The Rose & Crown will be closed for two weeks while the work, including new carpets and flooring, takes place.

It takes years to build a strong reputation and no time at all to spoil it, but suffice to say the good name of The Rose & Crown, at Romaldkirk, is in very safe hands. It is highly recommended.

Food Facts

The Rose & Crown, Romaldkirk,Teesdale.

Telephone: 01833-650213.

Email: hotel@rose-and-crown.co.uk

Website: rose-and-crown.co.uk

Food: 5/5

Service: 5/5

Ambience: 5/5

Value for money: 4/5