AT this time of the morning, at this time of the year, in this part of the world, the freezing cold air picks you up and slaps you round the face – it’s quite a wake-up call.

I’ve got up early to catch the first lift up to the slopes which seem to creep up the mountains like veins either side of the Norwegian town of Geilo. From the warmth of a hearty breakfast at the whitewashed Dr Holms Hotel, the sub-zero air whooshes down your throat with every breath and creeps in gaps between your gloves and your coat.

The cold shock doesn’t last for long though – provided you have enough layers on, the snappy, crisp air is soon quite refreshing.

What’s more, despite it being early March, my visit has been blessed with fine weather – the kind of brilliant blue sky and dazzling sunshine that makes for picture-postcard skiing and snowboarding and turns sunglasses or goggles into much more than a fashion accessory.

My journey from Oslo to Geilo was an experience in itself – a minibus ride on icy, winding, narrow roads which took in rolling, snow-covered hills, frozen fjords and deep, dense forests.

“Keep an eye out for elk,” said my guide as we made our way towards Geilo. I didn’t see any elk on my journey, although I spotted two in the hotel bar, their massive heads mounted on sturdy wooden plaques. It made me thankful that I didn’t spot any elk rambling on to the icy carriageway en route to Geilo – the minibus would undoubtedly have come off worse.

Here, skiers and snowboarders have two options – the Geilo hill or across the the valley on the Geilolia side.

If you are lucky and disciplined enough to be first on the ski lift you are richly rewarded with 40 freshly pisted, wide, empty slopes. Skiing seems an entirely different pastime when you are lucky enough to have the mountain to yourself – it becomes less energetic and more therapeutic.

The surprising thing, perhaps is that even as morning sweeps towards afternoon, the slopes remain relatively uncongested, certainly compared with rush hour at some of the central European resorts. The pistes are remarkably well looked after – soft, unslushy and powdery – and to make conditions even better, on one of those quiet, serene mornings on the slopes I’m treated to some fresh snow. It’s surely a psychological thing but, even the most amateurish, novice skier can’t help to feel like a seasoned pro with their skis slicing effortlessly through fresh, fluffy snow.

Both hillsides offer a variety of pistes – nursery, blue, red and black – though none are particularly long.

It’s nobody’s fault – Norway simply can’t boast the vertical drop of the likes of the Alps or Canada.

Some of the black runs don’t seem as severe as those of the same colour elsewhere in Europe, but they are nevertheless challenging enough, and there are plenty of opportunities for off-piste skiing, as well as a tidy jump park and dozens of moguls scattered throughout.

For those looking for something different, both hills have an air bag, where plucky skiers or boarders race towards a ramp, taking flight before landing on a massive inflatable. It’s great fun for those not ready to try a real jump – it’s almost impossible to hurt yourself in the landing, though many tried their hardest.

It’s worth spending an hour or so on the toboggans too – these are big, hefty, steerable sledges which you can race at break-neck speed down a windy, bumpy track. It turns adults into wild, screaming schoolchildren.

I went down the slope four times and could have easily gone another four.

For a new experience, it’s also worth trying night skiing, with one side of the Geilo resort turning on piste floodlights to allow people to ski once the sun, swiftly followed by the temperature, goes down. The woodland canopy walk – not for the fainthearted – is also fun. You strap yourself to a series of cables before swinging, sliding and walking from one giant tree to the next.

There are plenty of chances for cross country skiing or telemarking, and a short drive out of Geilo will take you to Hallingskarvet, a national park full of expansive Arctic beauty.

There, you can hop on a dog sled and go for a ride. Be prepared, both to do some work and to get very cold.

The dogs are remarkably strong, but still need a helping push to get up hills so, while a passenger sits in the comfortable seat, a driver stands at the back – the occasional push helping the excitable pooches along. It’s a wonderful way to see a stunning landscape – just make sure you layer up.

GEILO is perhaps a little bit tame for those adrenaline junkies on the lookout for a new fix of daredevil winter sports.

However, there is plenty on and off the slopes to keep most skiers and snowboarders entertained and, for beginners, there surely aren’t many better places to learn.

That said, prepare to arrive with deep pockets. In Norway, food and drink is never cheap, but there is plenty of variety and quality to please all the family at the dinner table. Have a go at a tasty reindeer steak and remember Norway is also very rightfully proud of its fine fish, and halibut and trout are commonplace on the menu.

TravelFacts

Neilson Active Holidays offers skiing holidays to Geilo to hotels such as Dr Holms (drholms.no) as well as catered chalets. Prices for seven nights half board at Dr Holms, including direct flights and transfers to resort, start from £905 per person.

Call 0845-070-3460 or visit neilson.co.uk for more information. For more details about Geilo, visit visitnorway.co.uk