Out and aboot...

One of the best reasons to go to Scotland in the autumn is that you are free from those damned midges! Another is that it's beautiful – when the sun shines, the low light lends a golden glow to the turning leaves and softens even the craggy mountains that Highlands are so famous for. The roads are emptier, too, so getting from A to B is less stressful – and very scenic. And whether you are looking for somewhere homely to lay your head, or something a bit more special, there is a great choice of hotels.

Ardanaiseig

Kilchrenan, Argyll and Bute

The first intimations that you are in for something special begin as you meander down a ten-mile single track road with stunning views over Loch Awe. The feelings deepen as the track gives way to a drive lined with impressive trees and Ardanaiseig, “the most romantic hotel in Scotland”, reveals itself. A whistle-stop tour of this Grade-II listed baronial home with a difference later, and you will find yourself smitten.

The rambling 19th century manor sits in perfect seclusion on the edge of Loch Awe, surrounded by forests punctuated by little paths, roe deer, gardens and staggering views. And while the location alone sets it apart, it's the hotel's unique style that really impresses.

The dark stone exterior belies the playfulness of the interior. London art dealer Bennie Gray, the hotel’s owner since 1995, has brought a bit of rock and roll to the Highlands with reworked oil paintings of Lauren Bacall, Bianca Jagger and other rock stars and politicians hanging on the walls. He has furnished the rooms from his eclectic collection and the elegant gold painted drawing room houses everything from thrones to curling stones. A Bechstein grand piano sits stately in a corner, inviting guests to play it.

But the fun and opulence aren’t at the expense of comfort: sofas in the elegant drawing room are hard to leave; the four-poster bed in Kilchurn, our Master Loch View room, was superbly comfortable, and the en-suite was modern, bright and very well appointed. No antiques in there, just oodles of hot water and luxury Scottish toiletries from Arran Aromatics.

Supper, in the long dining room with views of the loch, was a mouth-watering series of dishes created from local ingredients by award-winning young chef Colin Cairns; breakfast was freshly cooked and delicious. To stoke up an appetite, there are acres of grounds to explore. Tracks meander off in all directions: one takes you down to the lochside where The Boatshed, Ardanaiseig’s luxury honeymoon suite, is situated, and where hardy souls swim off a little sandy bottomed bay in summer; another track leads to the abandoned walled garden. It’s all wildly romantic, and very, very hard to say goodbye to.

• Ardanaiseig Hotel, Kilchrenan by Taynuilt, Argyll, PA35 1HE. Bed and breakfast from £218 per room per night for two. W: ardanaiseig.com

What to do

Hunker down in the beautiful drawing room and simply stare out over Loch Awe.

A fishing expedition for two with a ghillie costs from £60, or you can take out one of the hotel’s two boats yourself from £20. Clay pigeon shooting is available on a hillock overlooking the bay.

If you can tear yourself away, Ardanaiseig is a 40-minute drive from Oban, where ferries sail out to the Isle of Mull and other islands.

The Atholl Arms Hotel

Dunkeld, Perthshire

In the heart of the pretty little Perthshire town of Dunkeld, at the head of the five-arched bridge over the famous river Tay, is the traditional whitewashed Atholl Arms Hotel. And while it couldn’t be termed “romantic”, this popular stop-off is all about the welcome. Staff are friendly and helpful, which comes in handy for case carrying as the listed building has no lift and it’s a long, steep way to the top floor.

From our clean and comfortable double-bedded eyrie, there was a view over the road to the hotel car park and the new riverside eating and drinking area, which must be a lovely place to G&T on a summer’s evening. The view would have been very different when the hotel was built in 1833. Back then the town’s main street was on the country’s main north/south route and it soon became a bustling coaching inn, overnight resting place of the great and good, including, it’s said, the oldest daughter of Queen Victoria.

The inn had seen better days, though, when Scottish couple Christine and Neil Sinclair took over the Atholl Arms in 2011 on their return from the States and they embarked on a programme of gradual improvements. Both the décor and the food in the lovely Riverview Restaurant were revamped to great effect, and for more casual dining, the bar and bistro – now known once again as The Meeting Place - were redeveloped. It’s a convivial place, where real ale flows, and guests mix with locals, old and young. We ate here and enjoyed a delicious seafood sharing platter though the main courses were a little basic. Food in the fine dining Riverview Restaurant has won awards and accolades on TripAdvisor.

• Atholl Arms Hotel, Bridgehead, Dunkeld PH8 0AQ. For the latest rates, visit athollarmshotel.com or call the hotel direct on 01350-727219.

What to do

• Stroll up to Dunkeld cathedral, one of the finest medieval churches in Scotland. The 15th century nave stands roofless, but the east end lives on as the parish church and features a well-preserved 14th century choir. A path from there takes you on a lovely riverside walk and deeper into grounds that are home to superlative trees – the fattest Douglas Fir, the tallest red fir, a Giant Redwood from the first batch imported into the UK. If you love trees, a walk upstream and an exploration of the woods of the Planting Dukes of Atholl is heaven.

• Dunkeld itself, one of the most complete 18th century towns in Scotland, is also worth a wander. There’s a row of artisan shops and cafes and a little square.

• Perthshire is the Adventure Capital of Scotland and as well as the traditional activities of walking, cycling, angling and golf, boasts a huge range of outdoor experiences.

Trigony House

Thornhill, Dumfries

While Ardanaiseig might claim the crown as most romantic hotel in Scotland, Trigony House, in the Nith Valley, must be the most dog-friendly. In fact, you might feel left out if you don’t take something four-legged along! Humans, too, are given a lovely welcome at this award-winning, family-owned hotel, from the moment you arrive in the impressive Japanese oak-panelled hallway to be greeted by Jan Moore. Our bedroom was past the kitchen, domain of husband Adam, a double room with large living area, large well-appointed bathroom and a small, heated conservatory overlooking a private garden.

We relocated to the welcoming lounge for afternoon tea – loose leaf, china cups, delicious home-made biscuits – which the family dog, Roxy, obviously has a taste for. And after tea, the well-tended gardens and lovely countryside surrounding this relaxing country house hotel tempted us out for a walk.

There are two dining rooms at Trigony, both with windows overlooking the gardens, but one with a bar, where dogs are welcomed. At breakfast – perfectly cooked and simply delicious – an expectant dog sat under each table, to be rewarded with its own sliced-up sausage.

The main dining room is light and airy, beautifully lit at night, as the friendly staff carry in delicious dishes which are made from local ingredients – some from the kitchen garden. The menu could best be described as modern rustic, with Mediterranean and influences. The home-made ice cream was delicious.

Adam and Jan took over the hotel eight years ago now and have created a home-from-home for guests who return again and again. “When we took ownership of Trigony, our aim was to make this the best Scottish hotel,” says Adam. With a slew of awards for hospitality, food – and for being dog-friendly, of course (see the Good Hotel Guide 2017) – they are heading in the right direction. Meg, our border terrier, would agree.

• Trigony House, Thornhill DG3 5EZ. Bed and breakfast from £120; bed, breakfast and evening meal from £190.

What to do

• Two interesting local attractions are Striding Arches, near Moniaive, by famed international landscape artist Andy Goldsworthy, and Crawick Multiverse, by landscape architect and garden designer Charles Jencks. On the site of an old open cast mine, Jencks has created various amazing landforms to represent cosmological forms.

• A walking holiday in Scotland is all about exploring the wild hills, and the Dalveen pass just ten minutes drive has striking scenery and a dramatic walk to the summit of Lowther Hill and Wanlockhead. The beautiful rolling hills of the Southern Uplands are to the north and the dramatic cliff top walks of the Solway Coast to the south.

• Dumfries House, just North of the hotel, is one of Scotland’s best kept heritage secrets, but with its sumptuous interiors and magnificent furnishings, all set in two thousand acres of land, there is something to enchant visitors of all ages.