The Fox Hole in Piercebridge has been through a number of incarnations. Now it’s enjoying huge popularity as a fantastic gastro-pub

WHEN Jack Bowles and Ellie Richmond decided to move up North, it was London’s loss, our gain. As well as packing up their old home, all their belongings and a baby son, they also brought with them a wealth of experience in the restaurant business.

Having spotted the perfect opportunity to make a new start in Ellie’s home territory, they revamped and revived a flagging pub in Piercebridge, just outside Darlington, and turned it into a characterful and hugely popular watering hole and pub/restaurant renamed The Fox Hole.

“I grew up in the Darlington and Stokesley areas and went to Barnard Castle School. My mother is originally from Middlesbrough and my father from a farming family near Richmond, so I am happily back in the heart of my old stomping ground,” says Ellie.

For Jack, the region was new territory. “But after getting his head round the different accents and dialects, he’s very content here,” laughs Ellie. “We both felt very strongly that we wanted Ralph to grow up in this friendly and welcoming part of the country and not in the rat race of London. All this fresh air!”

Ellie is a seasoned chef, who learned on the job in the kitchens of country house hotels and pubs in North Yorkshire, Essex and the Suffolk coast, and London’s demanding city restaurants. She also spent time working with Frances Atkins, the first female British chef to win a Michelin star, and moved to The Yorke Arms, in Nidderdale, with her.

Ellie also helped head up kitchens at the RAC Club, Pall Mall, and Smith of Smithfield, and that’s where she and Jack met. The 36-year-old front-of-house side of this successful double act went to catering college in Guildford and trained in bars in Hampshire and London.

But it’s a high-pressure life with demanding hours, and in 2010 the couple took two glorious years out to travel to South East Asia, India, Nepal, Australia and New Zealand. “We had wonderful food journeys across all countries and learnt a lot about flavours, cooking styles and different wines,” says Ellie.

After arriving back in London, Ellie kept hold of the Aussie vibe and worked in a fast-paced Australian café in the city and Jack headed up the Gin Bar in The Barbican. Ralph was born in summer 2013, followed very soon after by the opportunity to move North.

Back then, the former Carlbury Arms was a bit down-at-heel, a strange mix of purple-flowered wallpaper and purple striped carpets. North-East interior designer Julie Chambers got to work and in September 2014, the doors to The Fox Hole opened. Now the interiors are an eclectic mix of city and country, modern and rustic, sophisticated, but retaining the traditional charm of a local village pub.

There’s a Wellie Bar for farmers, walkers and dogs – there are even doggy beers, doggy crisps, doggy beds and water – with easy-clean flagstone floors. The restaurant is much sleeker, a convivial space where guests can enjoy a celebratory meal or early supper.

“We understood that the pub was very much part of the village and community so needed to keep that local pub side, but we also wanted to offer good food and service for more special occasions,” says Ellie.

Bi-fold doors open out from this area onto a small garden, making this end of The Fox Hole perfect for larger parties. They cater for weddings, christenings, wakes and birthdays, offering everything from summer barbecues to four-course dinners and buffet spreads.

Chef Ellie is hand-on full-time in the kitchen, while Jack can be found front-of-house and behind the well-stocked bar. There’s a fabulous gin menu and organic, bio-dynamic wines, plus a selection of constantly changing local hand-pull beers from Mithril Ales, Pennine Brewery and Three Brothers Brewery, among others.

“Jack has a love of small artisan wine producers from around the world,” says Ellie. “He has set up a small wine company, Profile Wines, which supplies Rocket Town Brew House in Darlington and The Fox Hole, plus numerous private clients across the area.”

The food menu is modern British, cooked using local produce – organic dairy Acorn is just down the road, Harry’s organic eggs from Piercebridge Farm Shop literally just across the road. Lamb comes from neighbouring fields and delicious sourdough breads are delivered fresh from the Rise Bakehouse in Crook.

“Winter is one of my favourite seasons as we get inundated with game from local shoots – pheasant, wild duck, partridge, hare – and can be really creative for the specials board. We are known for our array of hearty game pies,” says Ellie.

“Signature dishes which I’ve has to put back on menu through popular demand are Thai fishcakes with pickled salad and hot & sour dipping sauce; butter chicken; Massaman curry; and the plate of pork – maple smoked pork fillet, pig jowl rillette, braised belly with pickled red cabbage and cider jus.”

On Sunday, The Fox Hole has sharing roast meat platters, chicken, pork and melt-in-the-mouth beef with enormous Yorkshire puds, set in the middle of the table along with all the trimmings. “This is because I feel Sundays are all about family and friends gathering together to share some fun, help yourselves and get stuck in,” says Ellie.

For the first year, the couple lived above the pub, but now have a family home in Darlington. “We find it difficult to grab quality family time, but when we do, we love to find what’s happening with other pubs and restaurants in the area,” says Ellie.

The family also enjoy walks with their tireless springer spaniel. “Ralph particularly loves Teesdale – High and Low Force. He totally loves the outdoors. Who wouldn’t when you live on the foot of the glorious Dales and stunningly beautiful North York Moors?”

  • The Fox Hole, Piercebridge, Darlington DL2 3SJ                      Tel 01325-374286 the-foxhole.co.uk