I wasn't sure what to expect of the Spanish island of Majorca. I imagined a place packed full of young people heading for the popular destination of Magalluf ready to experience the club scene.

In fact, our fellow plane passengers were mainly couples of all ages and a few young families. While I had little knowledge of the place, friends assured me I would be pleasantly surprised at the beauty of the country.

We were in search of a truly Majorcan experience and our destination was the small village of S'Horta, about a 40-minute drive from Palma airport on the south-east side of the island. The roads are well signposted and not very busy so we could enjoy a relaxing drive.

We took a a country lane off the village's main road and drove down a steep hill, feeling like we were entering Southfork, Dallas, as we passed though large iron gates to the driveway.

Our stunning whitewashed villa was surrounded by trees and inside, we were surprised by its airiness and beauty. Its large white rooms with white marble flooring were a sharp contrast to the dark wooden doors and furniture.

Vast sliding glass doors opened on to a terrace overlooking a large pool area. I could have happily sat on that terrace all week just taking in the glorious view across the hillside and over the plains to a glistening blue sea.

There were few tourists in S'Horta village, though there are several holiday villas in the area. We wandered down to the local tapas bar and felt we had really got away from it all.

This is where you can really appreciate Majorcan life - men huddled around the TV screen watching sport while the women sat at the opposite end of the cafe, gossiping over coffee.

We asked for a selection of tapas which included stuffed mussels, salad, squid rings and bread, all washed down with a good local beer. Snacks at lunchtime in tapas bars proved to be a bargain - bread with a selection of cheeses and meats, some fries, two beers, two coffees - all for nine euros (about £6.30). And the locals couldn't have made us feel more welcome.

The best thing about a villa holiday is that you can do everything at your own pace. There are no meal times to meet and no need to dress for dinner. Evenings were spent on the terrace cooking up treats from the local supermarket on the barbecue, sipping wine, and listening to music while watching the sun go down. Not a single interruption.

The pool was cleaned every morning before we got up and it was our own to splash around in when we needed to cool off.

We appreciated the freedom of being able to stretch out by the pool in peace, pop up to the villa for a snack and return to the pool - occasionally with a jug of Pimms to help us through the afternoon - with no fear that someone would take our sunloungers while we were gone.

The eastern side of Majorca is a mix of flat plains and undulating hills. Perhaps the best place to view the area was at the monastery - Santuari Sant Salvador - a few kilometres east of Felanitx. Here the monks and visitors enjoy 360-degree views after a nerve-racking drive up a winding road.

The local beaches are small, quiet, sandy coves which are extremely clean and the waters are shallow and clear. Our favourites were Cala Sanau and Cala Mondrago and if you don't mind a long winding drive across salt flats, then a must-visit beach is Es Trenc, where it was well worth paying a few Euros for parking.

It is very popular with a long, sandy beach and shallow waters, ideal for spreading out and playing bat and ball. It is also popular with nudists apparently, but don't let this put you off.

My highlight of the week was discovering the pretty bay of Cala Figuera - one of the most attractive spots on the east coast. Here the inlet is lined with quaint brightly-coloured fishing cottages, and in the main village there are chic boutiques selling souvenirs and artwork.

We returned on our final evening of the holiday and soaked up the lively atmosphere around the restaurants which line the cobbled road.

The town of Santanyi is also very picturesque and a nice place to wander around the shops and pick up some local pottery.

We also explored the streets of Felanitx, a large, bustling town where there are more pottery shops and plenty of cafes to sit outside and watch the world go by.

Driving along the east coast we found several built-up resorts full of tourists. We passed them by - we were so taken with the secluded side of Majorcan life that we wanted to enjoy it for as long as possible.