GRAZ means Little Castle but there remains very little of the fortress that once stood high and mighty over the city on the Schlossberg.

The Schlossberg is a huge hill which overlooks the whole of Austria's second largest populous from the centre and is steeped in tradition.

Local legend has it that when Napoleon's men tried to take the Schlossberg, the Austrian warriors fought off their advances.

Now visitors can walk up and admire the views of a beautiful city and the breathtaking scenery, which includes snow- covered mountains on three sides.

Instead of walking to the top you can also take the quick route up the modern lift, which has actually been developed right through the middle, knocking out 5,000 cubic metres of rock in the process.

For one Euro, although the attendant kindly allowed me to go for free as he did not have any change, a futuristic lift speeds to the top in what can only be described as a lookalike to Batman's Batcave.

But once at the top the views of a city proud of its relationship with eastern Europe and the Balkans really does come alive. It is well worth the fee, all 60p of it - for those who pay.

ON returning to the hotel, The Weitzer, yesterday morning there was a brief encounter with the Middlesbrough squad taking a late morning stroll across the bridge over the River Mur.

Coach Steve Harrison led the way and all players were present and accounted for. But there was no register to check, they didn't need one. Instead the travelling supporters were ready to go through them one by one, or so it seemed, and sing their names. 'Bolo, Bolo Zenden', 'There's only one Job on Teesside'. Get the picture?

WHEN in Graz act like Austrians, so it was only right that the travelling press corps opted for a night in a local beerkeller named Rudolph and it was something straight out of the Sound of Music. Waiters and waitresses in traditional dress, food that very few would have been able to find a fault with and wonderful home-brewed beer. The only thing missing was Julie Andrews bursting into song.