DURHAM is full to bursting with coffee shops and cafes nowadays – bulging at the belt, one might say.

Some go for the traditional greasy spoon offer; others market mouth-watering, upmarket pastries and sweet temptations.

Coffee At Chesney’s, which can be found between a fish shop (the kind that sells pets, not a chippy) and Aldi, on Dragonville retail park, between Tesco Extra and Sherburn Road Estate, manages to combine the two – with personal service, a friendly atmosphere and nice surroundings to boot. What’s not to like?

My wife, two children and I visited on a weekday lunchtime – apparently at Chesney’s rush hour. Most tables were occupied and the mound of pork that had seemingly stuffed many-a-sandwich already was (temporarily) running low.

Not to worry – we jumped at a single table that stands in front of the counter; it having the advantages of being near the facilities for our toilet-training three-year-old and away from other diners hoping for a quiet, child-free bite to eat.

We were greeted warmly from behind the counter and began to scan the chalkboard menus beyond. The options are what one might expect, but considerable at that – a good range of sandwiches, paninis, baked potatoes, quiches and so on.

I chose the pesto, red onion and cheese panini special, which was nicely toasted, packed with flavour and a good portion. I need not have treated myself to a cheese scone, but I was very glad to have done so – it was wonderfully soft and warm, and again flavoursome.

Sarah went for the bacon, brie and cranberry panini. This is a favourite of hers, so expectations were high. But she was not disappointed – the mmmms coming across the table communicated more effectively than words ever could her total satisfaction.

Child number 1 munched her way partly through a whopping cheese sandwich, while child number 2 charmed old ladies with his smile and gurgling.

The disadvantage of sitting next to the counter was one could not but peruse the many delicious-looking cakes and desserts on offer. After a lot of agonising, I chose the carrot and walnut cake and Sarah went for the double, or perhaps it was even triple, chocolate variety.

Sadly, I must report they looked better than they tasted – the icing aside, of which there was too much, the cakes themselves were a little dry. The cream helped, but did not disguise the shortcoming. A shame; they looked amazing.

Across the dining area, there were families doing much the same as us, grandparents treating the grandchildren to something sweet, older couples out for a spot of shopping and a bite to eat and friends catching up over coffee – a pleasingly diverse bunch, and the conversation – both from the customers and the characters behind the counter – made for quite a hubbub.

The café has the decoration of Hollywood’s Golden Era, with glamourous portraits of Audrey Hepburn lining the walls. An odd choice for a local café on the edge of a retail park, one might think – but then there’s an Old Cinema Launderette just down the road that hosts folk gigs, so perhaps Gilesgate’s arts scene is growing.

Time was getting on and child number 1 was due at the dentist’s (perhaps letting her share the chocolate cake wasn’t the best idea), so we had to be off – but not before we’d pocketed a slice of Millionaire’s Shortbread for the evening, which was to be spent at the opening night of the ever-wonderful Lumiere light festival.

Given the name of the venue, I shouldn’t end the review without mentioning the coffee. The Americano was very good – strong and piping hot, just as I like it. I had to ask for it twice – it had been made and then left to stand undelivered due to a mix-up; but, credit the staff, they made me a fresh one, rather than serving up the presumably by-then lukewarm first round.

I’m not sure where the Coffee At Chesney’s name comes from – whether there is or isn’t really a ‘Chesney’. But for me it just makes me think of the 1991 megahit by one-hit-wonder-turned-reality-TV-star Chesney Hawkes. Whatever the true origin, I would happily endorse this café, and confidently predict my first visit will not be my One and Only.

FOOD FACTS

Coffee @ Chesney’s, Unit 1, Dragonville Court, Durham

Tel: 07970 406884

Web: www.facebook.com/coffeeatchesneys

Open: Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm; Saturdays, 9am to 5.30pm; Sundays, 10am to 4pm.

Food offer: Light lunches, snacks and cakes

Cheap and Cheerful: Toast, £1.50

Top Dollar: Various sandwiches, £4

Specials: Check the boards

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 6, Surroundings 6, Service 5, Value 7