DRY January, sugar free February, detoxes, diet, diet, diet. It’s the familiar New Year lexicon that makes me want to stick forks in my eyes.

Quite frankly, January is cheerless enough without punishing yourself gastronomically as well.

So when I heard there was a brand new restaurant on my doorstep I was only too pleased to brave a cold winter’s night in search of a gem.

It’s not strictly accurate to say Thai River is brand new. Formerly known as Thai Central, it is still owned by Chusak Phetmalaikul and is the first restaurant to open as part of the development to turn The Gates shopping centre into The Riverwalk.

But having relocated to the other end of the centre to make way for a new Odeon cinema and accommodation at the Milburngate Bridge end, it’s in a shiny new space which makes it worth checking out.

At the minute it’s not the easiest spot to find. It’s tucked right under Framwelgate Bridge, which means that while it has enviable views of Durham Castle and Cathedral, it’s quite hard to see if you don’t know where it is.

Above the Chinese buffet In Shanghai but below the bridge, it’s not immediately obvious which is the best way to get to it and because of the building work the entrance via the shopping centre is blocked off.

Instead, its accessible via the footpath by the river.

The front of the restaurant is made up almost entirely of windows so when the building paraphernalia is cleared it will really make the most of the river and world heritage site views.

The first week in January isn’t exactly known as a time when people are rushing to eat out, so it was quiet enough to ensure a window seat even without making a reservation.

Inside, it feels quite slick and modern – if not exactly bursting with character.

Feeling a little undecided, we went for the Thai River platter (£12.95) – including Kai Satay, Toong Thong, Tod Mun Pla, Poh Pia Pak and Koong Nam Peung.

We both judged the Kai Satay (marinated chicken in a peanut sauce) as the star dish. Though neither of us would have picked it off the menu by itself, it really was fantastically moreish with soft, tender meat and a sweet and slightly spicy, flavoursome sauce.

The other items also hit the spot, particularly the toong thong (a prawn and chicken parcel with plum sauce), which was delightfully crisp and koong nam peung (king fried prawn with honey and plum), which had a great texture as well as taste.

The tod mun pla (Thai fishcake) and Poh Pia Pak (vegetable spring roll) were enjoyable as well.

There are enough delicious-sounding main courses on the menu to keep tempting you back all month. There were quite a few I would have happily tucked into but in the end went for one of the chef’s recommendations - massaman lamb shank (£14.95).

I’m a sucker for anything stewed or slow cooked and lamb shank is no exception. It’s something I absolutely love but usually eat cooked in a traditionally British way with mash and gravy.

This was a refreshing change, stewed in coconut milk, cashews and chilli. The result: a very generous portion of beautifully tender lamb, sweet and aromatic.

It’s not the spiciest of curries but there are plenty of interesting flavours going on.

I loved it with my side of coconut rice (without a doubt my favourite way to serve rice) but my dining companion Carlo found the two together a little bit on the sweet side.

Carlo, who had been feeling the effects of a nasty cold, decided to blow out the cobwebs with a bit of heat and opted for the chicken Penang curry (£9.95). The flavours are coconut and lime leaf, with a decent whack of chilli.

It was only a medium strength curry but definitely packed a punch which was plenty for us.

The final bill came to £51.60, which while wasn’t the cheapest felt like good value for the amount and quality of food we got.

FOOD FACTS

Thai River, The Riverwalk, Durham, DH1 4SL

Contact: 0191 597 8774

Food served: Thai

Opening hours: Daily. noon-10pm

Ratings (out of ten): Value 8, Service 8, Surroundings 7, Quality 8