I FEEL the need to start with an apology to the chefs at Lebaneat.

My colleague Lizzie, my dining companion on this particular warm July night, is a lovely lady, cultured, civilised and demure, a real pleasure to spend time with – usually.

But on our trip to this little eatery along the cobbles of Durham’s North Bailey, in the shadow of the great cathedral, she behaved in a way that mortified this reviewer.

She committed the cardinal sin in fine eating establishments, the ultimate insult to well-trained chefs and the embarrassing faux pas that caused much consternation and tutting from the neighbouring tables as well as from myself.

She asked for ketchup with her falafel wrap.

I think she realised her error pretty quickly, perhaps my hissing at her may have given her some clue, and the poor lass’s face turned so red it was almost as if she had bathed in the offending condiment.

“I just wanted it for my chips,” she cried, tears pooling in the corners of her eyes as a low booing started to rumble around the room, some sniggered at her plight while others merely looked at her contemptuously.

But the waiter had the best reaction of all – he smiled politely, said “of course madam” and returned a few moments later with a bowl of quivering ketchup for the table.

And do you know what? It tasted great with my meat kebab, Lizzie of course being far too embarrassed now to let even a particle of tomato sauce pass between her lips.

There is understandably a snobbery when it comes to ketchup which, as it happens, is a particular favourite sauce of mine.

I think the reasoning is that good food should taste so fine that ketchup adds nothing to it, it is not needed to add any lubrication or mask any unpleasant flavours.

And at Lebaneat ketchup really was an unnecessary addition, although once it was there it seemed like a waste not to dunk a large piece of lamb meat in it.

Lizzie’s silliness aside, it really was a terrific meal.

We started with a mixed starter for two (£6 a head), a platter of Lebanese morsels, hummus, rice wrapped in vine leaves, crispy falafel balls and a strong flavoured yoghurt dip and the like.

It was a pleasing selection, a real work-out for the tastebuds leaping from sweet and tangy to sour and tart, often in the same mouthful.

We washed it all down with a refreshing glass of lime and soda and waited for our mains to arrive. And they did not disappoint.

Now I’m not particularly knowledgeable about Lebanese cuisine, but it seemed very genuine to me, and delightfully so.

I had a mixed grill with salad and rice (£14.95) which was practically spilling off the plate as the waiter placed it before me.

Chargrilled chunks of seasoned Lamb kofta tumbled over chicken and lamb cubes, which were in turn precariously perched atop chicken wings, grilled tomatoes and onions.

The meat was perfect, juicy and plentiful, while the salad offered a refreshing complement to the heavier mouthfuls.

Lizzie had a £6.95 halloumi and falafel wrap (I resisted the urge to say “Hello you, halloumi” to the waiter but you are welcome to use it next time it is appropriate) served with thick potato chips.

And it was for these that she ordered the ketchup, and after recovering from all the unpleasantness I directed at her, she really did seem to enjoy it all.

The wrap was bursting, the chips crisp-shelled and soft-centred, and after returning to her usual lady-like state for a brief period to overcome the ketchup catastrophe, she tore into it with great gusto.

After all of this we were far too full for dessert, although we were sorely tempted by the chocolate fudge cake.

We were well treated throughout our stay and it really was a pleasant little place to while away the hours, watching the world clip-clop by on the cobbles outside.

It was surprisingly busy when we went on a weekday evening, a mix of students and locals. All seemed to be enjoying themselves, and thanks to my blushing dining companion, all now have an anecdote to tell.

Lebaneat

47 North Bailey, Durham City, DH1 3ET
Tel: 0191-384-6777 Lebaneat.co.uk
Opening hours: Monday to Sunday, Noon to 11pm

Ratings (out of ten):

Food quality: 9
Service: 9
Surroundings: 9
Value: 8