Malcolm Warne visits Framboisette at Eaglescliffe, which is putting new life into The Sportsman pub

A NEW restaurant has opened in Eaglescliffe which has to be a good thing. For too long its glitzy near-neighbour Yarm has had the pick of the culinary action in these parts.

We are not forgetting The Waiting Room, the village’s long-established vegetarian establishment, but one veggie restaurant, however much it is loved by those of a meat-free disposition, does not make for a vibrant eating scene for all. So three cheers for Framboisette which has opened in what used to be – or perhaps still is – The Sportsman pub in Station Road, just opposite The Waiting Room.

The sign outside says Framboisette at The Sportsman, and that’s fine because we are all used to hospitality premises having split personalities these days, aren’t we.

But the initial confusion about Framboisette continues once you step inside. To the right of the front entrance is what we presumed is the Sportsman pub bit. To the left is what probably was the lounge bar, but has been refurbished to look more like a cocktail bar.

It almost pulls it off, but there are still a number of tell-tale pubby elements to the decor, notably the grubby tables and the array of optics behind the bar.

Framboisette the restaurant is in what was probably the Sportsman’s function room to the rear and is reached via double doors from the aforesaid lounge/cocktail bar and considering what the space used to be is a reasonable attempt to create a cosy French bistro-type ambience. The lighting level is romantic, the decor is subdued slightly shabby chic and for those wondering where the name Framboisette comes from, there’s a very big clue on one of the walls.

The style of the large poster is typical of the type of Parisian advertisements for bicycles (the one for Peugeot is perhaps the best-known) produced at the turn of the 19th Century by the Italian raised but Portuguese-born artist Francisco Tamagno (isn’t Wikipedia marvellous).

Okay. Got it now. Framboisette is a French bistro so bring on the steak tartare, coq au vin and ratatouille.

It was not that simple. The menu promises “fine French, Italian and traditional cuisine” and closer inspection revealed a multi-national cornucopia of dishes one might find on any contemporary modern British menu – tempura battered prawns, ham hock terrine, venison steak, halloumi skewers and crispy vegetable spring rolls with a trio of oriental sauces.

But let’s not get too hung up on matters of national identity. What was the food like?

My starter of pan-fried scallops with pea puree, pancetta and a balsamic glaze (£8.95) was poor. Criminally, the scallops had been overcooked almost to the point of rubberyness. The pancetta was too crisp and the pea puree looked like something the cat had brought up.

Sylvia enjoyed the soup of the day (£4.95), but a week later when this was written we couldn’t remember what flavour it was. But it was good.

Inspired by memories of hot nights in Greek island tavernas, Sylvia opted for lamb stiffado with lemon and black pepper rise (£14.95) – and was disappointed. The lamb was not particularly tender, was gristly in part and despite the liberal addition of cinnamon and cloves failed to evoke Ouzo-infused recollections of dining beside a rippling blue Aegean sea.

My seared duck breast with five spiced crushed potato, spiced red cabbage, baby leeks with a Cointreau jus (£15.95) was really very good. Perfectly sautéed slices of duck were piled on top of the potato cake with the tender baby leeks piled on top of the duck. The jus was rich and sweet.

I finished with what might be considered the only authentic French bistro/brasserie dish on the menu – a simple banana crepe (£4.50) served with flaked almonds, whipped cream and a chocolate sauce. Delicious and very filling.

Service was very good. Our only other gripe was an outside door at the rear of the restaurant which from to time was left open and introduced a draught at leg level. There was also another reminder that this is still nominally a pub in the gents loos which have not been refurbed and featured a prominent notice about The Sportsman’s zero-tolerance approach to drugs.

The bill was £70.30 and included a £22 bottle of Italian fizz. We reckon that’s not particularly good value, so it’s only two cheers for Framboisette.

Framboisette

6a Station Road, Eaglescliffe, TS16 0BU

Tel: 01642 961600 Web: framboisette.co.uk

Open: noon-2.30pmand 5- 8.30pm Monday to Saturday. Sunday noon-4pm.

Vegetarian options. Disabled access.

Food quality: 3/5

Service: 4/5

Surroundings: 3/5

Value: 3/5