Malcolm Warne finds the Tontine near Osmotherley completely recovered and back to its Sunday best

IT’S two years since one of the North’s most celebrated restaurants underwent an end-of-an-era defining refurbishment. The Cleveland Tontine, much loved for more than 40 years, was done over from top-to-bottom after sub-sea engineering entrepreneur Charles Tompkins took control of the business after many years as a sleeping partner.

Mr Tompkins and his wife Angela were among the many who loved the idiosyncratic inn beside the A19 near Osmotherley. Despite having no background in the hospitality, they sank a small fortune into the decaying structure and fabric of the building and with the help of no lesser figure than Raymond Blanc (a personal friend of the Tompkins’) they invested heavily in the kitchen and elsewhere.

What was swept away with the new broom was the last vestiges of the McCoys era – specifically Eugene who had been the essence and soul of the Tontine since the 1970s. It’s fair to say it was not a happy period for all concerned, but time is a great healer. Eugene and Barbara are now happily ensconced up the road at the Crathorne Arms and doing well. The question for the Tontine is whether it can move on and escape the McCoy shadow?

The first couple of years have not been easy, I guess. One of its problems has been the generally-held view that the Tontine couldn’t be as good without its guiding light. Initially, that was undoubtedly the case. Key staff came and went and Eating Out colleague Gareth Dant (and one-time Tontine employee) gave the new Tontine a, at best, lukewarm assessment when he and his wife dined there on an evening in January 2014.

Eighteen months on, we were prompted to make our first proper visit since the changes, prompted by the appointment of a new restaurant manager and the news that one of the McCoys era staff stalwarts, the lovely Katie, had returned after maternity leave. We also learned the McCoy-era head chef, James Cooper, was still there. When chefs these days typically possess the loyalty of a house fly, that speaks volumes.

Sunday lunch was booked for 2pm and we skipped drinks in the bar to go straight to our table in what was the old downstairs bistro. While the downstairs bar has been remodelled slightly, the bistro is as before with its massive stone fireplace dominated the cosy low-ceilinged space. There’s less in the way of bric-a-brac scattered around but otherwise it’s just as it was in the old days – at least as we recall it.

Five starters were offered and they included a pea and ham soup, a chicken and ham hock terrine and a Heritage tomato salad with, intriguingly, crispy mozzarella. But our eyes were caught by pan-fried John Dory, lobster risotto, herb oil and confit tomato, a dish that Sylvia described as intensely and richly flavoured. The creamy risotto was almost soup-like in consistency, the herb oil added depth and colour. The dinky fish fillet with the confit tomato perched on top was firm, fresh meatiness.

My mackerel fillet was prepared to the same high standard, lightly grilled and the oily, buttery fish was perfectly paired with leeks four ways ( a smooth veloute, jelly, thin strips deep fried and little rounds poached and then lightly sautéed to finish). The crowning glory was a bread-crumbed deep-fried egg yolk – golden yummyness in a crispy coat. Elegant it may not have been but every last morsel of this dish was wiped clean from the plate with the last of a fresh read roll.

The roast meats we enjoyed next were absolutely, crackingly good. The great slabs of medium-rare sirloin I chose, with the usual accompaniments, were tender and with a little crispy flavour-enhancing fat still left on. Served with a large and light Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes, complimented by a good red-wine gravy, it was English roast beef at its very best.

Sylvia’s strongly flavoured rack of lamb was pink without being bloody, meltingly tender and served with a mint jelly that no hint of that vinegary-sharpness mint sauce tends to have. She thought roast potatoes were as good as hers (there is no finer culinary tribute) and we both loved the vegetables – halved whole carrots, roasted parsnips, mange tout, French beans, broccoli and cauliflower cheese.

I completed the feast with an individual lemon meringue pie topped with some halved English strawberries (Sylvia had those) and a little sticky-chewy-crisp meringue. Small but perfectly-formed and flavoured.

We were looked after royally by new restaurant manager Marius (correct, formal but friendly) and the lovely Katie. Motherhood clearly suits her.

With my three courses costing £25 and Sylvia’s two £22, our drinks (small glasses of merlot, sauvignon blanc and a Campari) brought the bill to £65.

This was as good a Sunday lunch as we have had in many a year and a sign that the Tontine is back on top form.

 

FOOD FACTS

The Cleveland Tontine, Staddlebridge, Northallerton, DL6 3JB

Tel: 01609-882671

Web: theclevelandtontine.co.uk

Food quality: 5/5

Surroundings: 4/5

Service: 5/5

Value: 4/5