WITH a marathon journey in prospect, Andrew White stops off at a charming Oban

AS someone who loves Scotland and is a frequent visitor to that beautiful country, it is perhaps surprising that I had never been to Oban. Especially as everyone I know who has been would tell me how much they enjoyed their time there.

The opportunity to visit arose when, desperate to avoid having to make a 12-hour journey to the Outer Hebrides in one go, my fiancee Frances and I noticed that Oban was neatly situated at the half-way point. Known as 'the Gateway to the Isles', the town is used by many as a stopping point or a base for further adventures along the spectacular coastline. And it proved ideal for our purposes.

The first thing to note a is how picture-postcard pretty it is. It's dominated by a sweeping horseshoe-shaped bay, full of vessels and activity – the kind of sheltered harbour you might picture in an idealised view of a coastal town – with a craggy, mountainous backdrop.

The town itself is composed of elegant solid stone houses, overlooked by the incongruous McCaig's tower. This oddity – commissioned by a philanthropic banker at the end of the 19th century – is a huge granite amphitheatre which dominates the skyline.

The town is well geared up for the tourists. The Oban Distillery, established on its town centre site before the town centre itself existed, is a popular attraction, but there is a familiar mix of pubs, restaurants and gift shops to keep the visitors' attention.

The Perle Oban Hotel – our accommodation – is bang in the middle of town and immediately catches the eye. This imposing building – originally named the Station Hotel and built for First Class passengers of the new railways – has recently been refurbished and rebranded as a luxury hotel. The revamp works superbly, blending what appear to be original features with a modern, sympathetic look. The muted colour scheme is understated and stylish.

Perhaps the hotel's biggest selling point is its location overlooking the bay. Our bedroom, with superb views across the harbour and beyond, was spacious and well-furnished, with a very comfortable bed.

Oban is well-known for the quality of its restaurants – it is known as the 'Seafood Capital of Scotland' – so any new establishment has to stand out, and the Perle Oban has taken the bold move of trying something different. The BAAB Meze & Grill, bringing together a mix of recipes from Greece, Turkey and the Levant, is a first for Oban.

The menu is designed to offer a series of sharing dishes for the diner. Guided by out hostess – as friendly and helpful as all of the staff we encountered in the hotel – we selected three small plates, two larger plates and a side dish.

Some of it was familiar to us – the fried haloumi, tzatziki and the mouth-wateringly juicy tamarind prawns. But we also wanted to be a little adventurous, so also tried the baba ghanoush – mashed aubergine with garlic and tomatoes – and the warm freekeh salad. Perhaps the highlight was the magnificent rice pudding with rose syrup we had as a dessert.

It rounded off a delicious meal and proved a perfect end to a memorable stay. If you're passing, make sure this is one stop-off you don't miss out on.

TravelFacts

  • Perle Oban hotel, Station Square, Oban, PA34 5RT.
  • The 59 rooms include nespresso coffee machines, bluetooth Bose sound systems, L'Occitane toiletries, 100 per cent Egyptian cotton sheets and rainfall showers.
  • T: 01631-700301; E: stay@perleoban.com; W: perleoban.com