Out & About: New gin school opens in Newcastle

DID you know that, such were its devastating effects on poor women, that gin was once known as mother’s ruin? Or that “navy strength” refers to gin with such high alcohol content that it didn’t impede the lighting of gunpowder on board ships? These are just two of the facts that students of the gin school, at Newcastle’s Crowne Plaza hotel, are being taught as part of their initiation into the world of the well-loved spirit.

Considered quintessentially British, gin in fact traces its origins back to Holland, where it was first produced in the early 17th century. Originally sold by chemists as a medicine for stomach complaints, gout and gallstones, it was given to British troops fighting in the Low Countries during the Thirty Years’ War as “Dutch Courage”. The soldiers brought it home, where gin was already starting to be distilled, and the rest, as they say, is history.

The spirit has had something of a chequered life, having been once been castigated as the scourge of the poor – giving rise to William Hogarth’s hellish 1751 sketch, Gin Lane – while also enjoying a heyday with the 19th century gin palaces. In the 1960s, the institution of gin and tonic began to lose its sparkle, with drinkers turning to the new spirit on the block – vodka.

Now, however, gin is at the height of another resurgence, with new, independent distillers springing up everywhere and a gin bar in every city centre. Keen to capitalise on this, when the Newcastle Crowne Plaza opened almost two years ago, it chose to specialise in the spirit in the modern, glass-fronted lounge that aims to attract the public and not just hotel guests.

Run by manager Will Young, who bears a passing resemblance to his popstar namesake, The Gin Bar is proving popular for nights out, providing a range of local and familiar-brand gins in a relaxed setting just behind Central Station. The gin school was first devised as a novelty for corporate guests.

“It was an idea thought up by our director of sales, Amanda, and she wanted to do a little gin talk,” says Will. “We’ve been doing it since February, but we’ve just had our first one for the public. On the first Thursday of every month, a distiller will come in and do a 30-minute talk to a class of around 15 people. They let everyone taste the gin, have a couple of gin and tonics and then there’s some food on as well, so it’s not about us – it’s the people who make the gin. They will also give a little history, and every month will be different because it will be a different company.”

So far, the response has been overwhelmingly positive, with a broad range of people signing up for the classes. In addition to distillers Will is also keen to get tonic producers involved. “We got a man from Fentimans in and he was talking about how old it is and the process of making it and how it’s unique,” he says. “Obviously tonic is made from quinine, which is the bark from a tree in the Amazon, and they use it to treat malaria. That’s where the name Fever-Tree comes from.”

The choice of Fentimans, made in Hexham, was deliberate. Will is keen to champion local distilleries and tonic producers and would rather have a relatively small, carefully-chosen range – the bar sells about 35 to 40 different gins – than go for quantity. Being selective enables bar staff to be knowledgeable.

“It’s good for people to ask for recommendations because the barmen really know what they’re talking about,” says Will. “It’s about trying to get people to move away from the classic gins – we’ve got such great gins from smaller companies like Masons, Hepple Gin and Durham Gin. We went down to Bedale to Masons distillery and it was one still and three guys doing it. It’s great experience for these guys.”

While, to qualify as gin, the spirit must be distilled with juniper, any other botanical can be added, leading to a wide diversity of flavours. Northumberland-based Hepple Gin, a double gold winner at this year’s San Francisco Spirit Awards, uses Douglas fir which is added to the still within minutes of being harvested. Will loves this individuality and variety and believes it’s key to gin’s appeal.

“I think the reason it’s popular is because it’s so refreshing and you can do so much with it,” he says. “You can change it so much and drink it in so many different ways. Some of the cocktails are amazing. You can drink it with Prosecco and sloe gin is amazing. It’s also important to remember the tonic side. A lot of people don’t like gin and tonic because they don’t like tonic, but we also try to play around with the tonics and get different flavours. We’ve got really good Mediterranean, elderflower and lemon tonics.”

A recent introduction has been gin boards – a kind of tapas including three types of gin, tonics, and garnishes such as black pepper, strawberries, lime and blueberries. Great for groups, Will feels they encourage people to be adventurous rather than stick to what they’re used to. “People will come up to the bar and not know what gin to have and they will want to try everyone else’s gin so we thought, why not try a tapas board for gin?” he says.

Along similar lines, he is hoping to introduce a wheel of fortune, with customers spinning the wheel to be allocated a gin at random. “I think my job is to make sure people are trying new gins all the time because there are so many out there,” he says. “It’s just trying to be ahead of the game, I think. I think we’ll have a good summer for gin.”

It would be hard to do the job if Will didn’t have a genuine love of the spirit, but the question is, can he single out a favourite? “I must say at the minute it’s Hepple Gin,” he says. “It’s so unique and it’s so smooth. It’s just a great, well-rounded drink.”

The Gin Bar, Crowne Plaza Newcastle, 223 Forth Street.

W: theginbar-ncl.com

Raspberry Thyme Smash

Ingredients: 4 raspberries, 2 sprigs thyme, 15 ml gomme syrup, 20ml lemon juice, 50ml Ophir Gin

Method: Add raspberries to shaker, muddle, add thyme, pour in order listed, shake and strain for 4 secs. Garnish with a raspberry speared with thyme and a lemon wedge and serve with crushed ice.

Tyneside Fizz

Ingredients: 5ml gomme, 15ml elderflower cordial, 15ml lemon juice, 25ml Durham Gin, 5 mint leaves, 75ml Prosecco

Method: Pour in order listed, add mint, shake and fine strain, top with Prosecco. Garnish with a floating mint leaf and lemon oil.